Viewing page 23 of 63

40/
[[left margin in red]] Ostend [[\left margin in red]]
The large hotels are closed except one or two and the latter have few if any guests.
[[left margin in red]] Boats [[\left margin in red]]
From my quiet room (+ bath) well situated to give me a view on the incoming small craft and fishing boats I have a good outlook on the quiet easy going life of the people. The former [[red underline]] sturdy sail fishing boats [[\red underline]] have all disappeared and have been replaced by [[red underline]] two masted diesel- [[\red underline]] engined boats Ketch rigged without bowsprit carrying a forestay-sail, a [[strikethrough]] loose fooled [[/strikethrough]] mainsail and a jibsail, [[strikethrough]] all uniffe. [[/strikethrough]] all [[strikethrough]] dark red, [[/strikethrough]] tan color - but insufficient sail capacity unless in strong winds but the sails serving as auxiliary to the engine, or for trawling, also for heaving [[strikethrough]] bro [[/strikethrough]] to in a storm or while fishing. A rough looking set of men, many wearing wooden shoes. Fish is brought to nearby market.  Turbot, cabiltane[[guess]], sole - eels plaice etc.- also [[red underline]] large crabs, [[\red underline]] some of them [[red underline]] 12" wide[[\red underline]] with a shell as hard as our [[red underline]] stone crabs [[\red underline]] in Florida but of less inviting color and without the characteristic specks of the stone crab.
[[left margin in red]] Bruges [[\left margin in red]]
[[underline]] June 17 [[\underline]] After a good nights sleep weather is brighter. So I took train to [[red underline]] Bruges. [[\red underline]] Same old station as in 1887, and no changes whatever to the beerhouses, cafes, restaurants, hotels [[strikethrough]] coachmen [[\strikethrough]] men and coachmen around the stations. - Also same [[strikethrough]] ebigin [[strikethrough]] strolling, loafing uniformed officers and soldiers as in Liege and Brussels. Walked thru the streets absolutely [[red underline]] everything the same as formerly except Cinemas [[\red underline]] and the sound of the [[red underline]] ggramophone [[\red underline]] or
[[end page]]
[[start page]]
41/
[[left margin in red]] Bruges  Ostend [[\left margin in red]]
the radia. Same slow moving population. Went to see the [[red underline]] canal and the bridge, Celine painted last year. [[\red underline]] - The painting looks better than the reality. - The water was as black as ink and as smelly as a sewer with [[strikethrough]] thiks [[/strikethrough]] many waste-things [[strikethrough]] floatidro [[/strikethrough]] floating in this stagnant water. The streets, the shops everything is exactly as it was when I was professor here. - Yet I feel an [[red underline]] absolute stranger [[\red underline]] now and when I ask for any information the men and women treat me as if I were a stranger who had never had anything in common with the place. I walked to the old gothic [[red underline]] State normal school [[\red underline]] thru the same narrow and curved street thru which I had to sprint in a hurry after my lectures to catch the train which by the afternoon would bring me to the [[red underline]] University in Ghent [[\red underline]] to direct the laboratory work of the students there. [[strikethrough]] Nothing here also has [[/strikethrough]] Everything here also has remained the same.  On the corner of the street near the entrance I saw a gray haired old woman, sitting on a chair in the entrance of her open door of her house, bent over [[red underline]] her lace-making outfit [[\red underline]] exactly in the same spot as I had seen her last in 1888 with the difference that the new old woman who succeeded the former was then 44 years younger and probably a little girl of 16 at the utmost. Not a living being entered or came out of the wide door above the large entrance stairs of the [[red underline]] Normal school. [[\red underline]] For a moment I had the impulsion of ringing the bell and visiting the school. - But when I was about to do it the thought came to me that I was not in the U.S
Please note that the language and terminology used in this collection reflects the context and culture of the time of its creation, and may include culturally sensitive information. As an historical document, its contents may be at odds with contemporary views and terminology. The information within this collection does not reflect the views of the Smithsonian Institution, but is available in its original form to facilitate research. For questions or comments regarding sensitive content, access, and use related to this collection, please contact transcribe@si.edu.