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these were only normal noon crowds for a city of 1,200,000 inhabitants.  We called on the American Consul, and lunched at Mappin's Store, where we found a crowded tea room that reminded us very much of Woodward & Lothrops' on a matinee day! 

     After lunch we went out to the snake farm at Butantan, about seven miles, where we met the Director, Dr. C and his assistants, and admired the beautiful buildings and grounds of this famous Institute.  Here there were many pits for reptiles and we saw fer-de-lance venom extracted.  They had a fine example of Xenodon, a snake which we also saw yesterday at Nicteroi, which flattens itself, and inflates itself with air, in a most curious fashion.  

     Besides snakes, there are a number of experimental animals here, rabbits, guinea pigs, pigeons, and a few monkeys who are being used in the work done on yellow fever.  They had a red howler and a black howler, and also a young pet tapir.  

     Mr. John T. Jones, who yearns to go into the animal busines spent the afternoon with us, and we all had drinks at the Esplanada Hotel before we started on the long drive back to the ship.  Much of the country is cultivated, and we particularly remarked on the smallness of the bana trees, which, no higher than a man's head, bore bunches of fruit.  Here also is the water supply for both cities, and we passed fourteen artificial lakes, the reservoirs for a large population.  

     The ride down the mountain was spectacular at night, with the lights of Santos spread in a fairy network far below us, and a bright crescent moon over our shoulder.  

     We reached the ship at seven-thirty, had dinner and went early to bed. All night long the derricks were working, and automobiles, Fords and Chevrolets, being unloaded for this, the largest coffee-shipping port in the world.  

April 22 - Santos

     We spent practically all day on board ship, while Bill strove to untangle the red tape that surrounded our desire to present three gila monsters to the Butantan Institute.  Customs officials and veterinary officers should have been consulted in advance, it seemed, and we ran the purser and the Consul ragged before we were finally allowed to take the lizards (nice and fat after their sea voyage) off the boat.  

     The Consul took us to see the bird collection of Dr. Raul Jordan Magalhaes.  This gentleman owns one of the big casinos in Santos, has an estimated income of a quarter of a million dollars a year and collects birds as a hobby.  He had a cock of the rock, bellbird, numbers of toucans, penelopes, parrots, honey birds, sun bitterns, ducks, flamingoes, ibis, and many others.  We hope to get some birds from him on the way back.  

     Sailed at six.