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23 stone bridge while a beating rain passed. Took refuge in the bare open pavilion of the Dragon King on the Heart of the Lake Island, and came home. Monday, 20 July Most days we manage to occupy well with one thing and another, reading, writing, enjoying each other's company, but today, though pleasantly was rather uselessly occupied. In the afternoon we strolled into the city to see what we could see. We got us some candy, bought some more fans, this time for gifts, saw a famous ham shop, and a medicine shop which rambled through many old courts like a veritable labyrinth, where there were many cages of deer whosehorns are scraped to make some very valuable and highly prized remedies. We took time to note various things of interest on the street. There are many shops where they manke the large wooden gongs that are used in public and private Buddhist worship. Most of these are carved out of large or small solid blocks of wood, and the best of camphor wood. The streets are remarkably plesant to smell in the vicinity of such shops. then there are the shops where they make the Hangchou lacquer. Hangchou lacquer is not as good as the Fuchou lacquer, but it is interesting to pass a shop and see confection boxes outside with the first coating of what looks like gray mud drying on them. There are embroidery shops where one may stop and watch the making of gorgeous coats and curtains and other draperies in the process of ornamentation. The deftness of the men and boys who do the work is rare to behold, the manipulation of the spools of gold thread as they move them here and there along the pattern catching down the thread with silk of some other hue to give the proper tone to the piece. Hangchou is also noted for its scissors, and the schissor shops are prominent, with rows upon rows of bright and shining tools displayed in cases along their walls. It is good to walk in the city. Tuesday, 21 July It pleased our fancies today to try a ride through the country by horseback. We had asked the boy to see about horses, but at supper time the report was that there was no chance to hire any. However, this I was wakened by the clatter of
