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42

We waited quietly until all was over, the antiphonal chanting, the responses, the processionals; until the priests had filed out and gone to their several quarters; then we left the now dim hall where the tall pillars were made of American pines from Oregon and where Buddha sat in peace.  We came back to Imperial Island, and went into a well-known restaurant for a mooniversary spree.  We were early, and got a pleasant table on the balcony overlooking the lake.  We ate fish, little puffy rolls (though bearing that name only because they are rolled and I know no better in English), young lotus leaves boiled with ham, vermicelli with fresh shrimps and young bamboo, a little wine, and tea.  It was very excellent dinner, featuring several Hangchou specialities.

The moon was high in the sky as we walked home in the darkening evening.

Friday, 31 July

This was another rare day, and in the afternoon we went into the city and found our way up to the top of the temple-lined hill near the south end of the inclosure.  Here we saw the characteristically Taoist and rather squalid Tung Yuen Miao (Temple of the Sacred Mountain of the Sacred Mountain of the East) and the City Temple, the Ch'eng Huang Miao. Poking along the ridge from temple to temple we came to a small one, whose well kempt appearance and attractive stage enticed us to enter.  Several scholarly looking men were at tables with books and writing equipment.  They bowed us welcomeas we enetered.  Within the hall were three gods, attended each by two demons.  The central one appeared to be himself a demon, for his face was sharp, his eyes and hair were red, and he wore only leaves for a dress.  He was the god of medicine one of the men explained to us, and this temple was maintained by the doctors of the city.  It had no preisthood and belonged to no religion, but the doctors came here and prayed before performing operations, then sat here and studied their books under the guidance of the deity, who taught them where to cut, and gave their hands skill.  Of the temples we visited none was more interesting than this, which was not listed in our guide books.