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44

Monday, 3 August 

Last night we had been asleep but a short time when we were awakened, about midnight, by what I at first took to be fire works from the sound of explosions and the leaping of flames up into the moonlit night. Soon, however, I became perfectly aware that it was a house on fire, and that the exploding was burning bamboo. The place was just west of our compound across the canal and street, and consequently, as we sat up in bed facing it we had a gorgeous view of the spectacle. And it was a spectacle. The flames shot up through the house and roof and second floor were soon gone. A pillar of smoke rolled off into the air and bits of burning fabric dropped to our lawn and the street. Fortunately all the roofs here are of tin or tile. Crowds began to gather, of course, and the shrill screeching of police whistles that first awakened us kept up for a long time. Drums and cymbals were heard and men with lanterns and torches were soon seen around the burning building, and we knew that efforts were being made to exorcise the fire demons. Soon, however, there was another sound, and presently we observed streams of water playing on the standing walls and into the flaming courtyard. I dressed and went down. 

The crowd was a large one, and though some drumming was audible I could not localize it. On the contrary the place was well policed, and even a squad of troops had been turned out. The crowd was quietly observing the fire, and staying back of the police lines so that the fire engines had a chance to work. These were hand pumps, manned by sixteen men each, and drew their water from the canal. I counted eight, and believe there were others I did not notice. The firemen wore metal helmets and presented a queer sight with their shining headgear and their shining bare sweat-wetted backs. They were bravely and systematically doing their work and the fire was well under control though the entire place had been burnt out. I have much respect for the way in which this matter was handled. 

The building was a dying establishment, where the common blue and white stenciled goods is made.