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49 

Buddhist temple above a court and lotus pond cut out of the living rock. Desolation, ruin, and high weeds surround the pagoda itself, but the temple is fairly well kept up. In a rear hall are four large figure of the Thousand-Handed Kuan Yin, standing on the floor back to back, and near this another hall where one can sit as on a balcony and look out over the plain and the city. 

When we returned to our boat we persuaded the crew to take it easy on the way back, so that we would not get to the station too early. They did, stopping at our request and buying us a couple bowls of vermicelli and some dumplings on the way. We circled outside of the city and around to the moat between the wall and the railroad. Here we rode at anchor for an hour while tall brown-sailed junks passed us and the moon, full this evening, came up [[phrase moved from end of sentence, indicated by hand-drawn arrow, to this position]] (from over the city wall) [[/moved phrase]] in eclipse to the accompaniment of the drums and whistles and fireworks calculated to frighten away the dragon or dog eating it (a method always successful). We went over to the station and found that the train was to go back a full hour earlier than the guard had told us in the morning, so we had only half an hour to wait and got back to Shanghai in good time. A good day of rare memories. 

Wednesday, 5 August. 

This morning was largely spent in getting our passage up the Yangtse. There are several classes of steamers on this river. The first class, Chinese and British boats, charge about fifty dollars for the round trip from Nanking to Kiukiang. The second class, Chinese boats, charge about thirty. And the Japanese boats alone allow foreigners to travel in native cabin at about fifteen dollars. But the seaman's strike has stopped the British and Japanese river boats, and foreigners must go first class or not at all. So we got first class passage on the principal second class boat, due to leave Shanghai Thursday evening. When we had done this little errand we set about collecting wedding presents. When last here we had used the Rowe wedding gift for a set of dishes, and this morning we selected a good set of Community silver, for which we paid with the McNeal and R.C. March gifts. In the afternoon we went to the municipal kennels, or pound (though the police