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beautiful at sunset as we walked along the high places.

Friday, 20 August

To start or not to start, that was the question; whether 'twas better for our tempers and work to go down the hill today, or to wait until tomorrow and take a chance on missing the boat. Leo Kurt, who lives in Kiukiang, had written us that the Feng Pu, a tramp steamer twin to the Fu Lung was expected back down the river on Saturday, and that the Ningshao was due on Sunday. Those being the only boats we could travel on with our tickets, and connection being close between them and the train and my job in Peking, we did not want to miss them. But would the Feng Pu really come tomorrow or would it not. Mrs.Kurt was going to try to get more information, but could not; so in the afternoon Dad and I went over to the Gap only to find that the telephone between Kiukiang and Kuling was broken, and no one knew when it would be repaired. We had already sent the trunks down, and saw no choice but for us to follow suit and go down that afternoon with the expectation of spending the night at Duff's, a rest-house for missionaried and other who are not averse to having a clean bed, fair food, and a cheap rate. Having no telephone we could not reserve a place, but we got baggage coolies, and started down. We got under way about four and had gone only an hour when it started to rain, a sudden mountain shower that kept us in a small teahouse for nearly thirty minutes. When we got started again the stones, especially the long flights of steps, were so slippery that we had to go extra slowly. We stopped once for tea and the sandwishes and cake we had brought with us. We got to Lien Hua Tung in the foothills at sunset when the red light upon the clouded mountain tops made them look like some threatening volcanoes, and inverted inferno. Luck was with us in getting a motor bus this time, and in getting all of our baggage across with us for only one extra ticket. At the motor garage we got out, and gave our stuff into the hands of coolies. Then we followed them through black streets around several turns until we came up before a dark doorway which opened at their call. A hallway and a smoky lamp welcomed us, but we got our bags up a narrow stairway and found ourselves