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[[image - woman posed wearing fur coat]]

Crème de Mink

It's not every day you can enjoy one of New York's finest performances.

And it's not every furrier who will pay for your seats!

I'm Fred the Furrier. And if you've come to New York for fur, now's the time to buy. Bring your ticket stubs and I will deduct the price of two tickets from any purchase of a new fur at the Fur Vault.

Select from this season's fabulous collection, which includes my own Crème de Mink—here in Natural Blackglama® Mink with narrow striping. $3,000.

But hurry. This very special offer ends April 30th.

[[signed]]Fred

FRED THE FURRIER'S FUR VAULT®
581 FIFTH AVE. BET. 47-48 STS. (212) 765-3877
WESTBURY • PARAMUS • STAMFORD • BETHESDA, MD • RICH'S ATLANTA
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American Express and major credit cards
Se habla espanol, all foreign languages.
Furs labeled to show country of origin.
Blackglama[registered trademark]]- Reg. T.M. Great Lakes Mink Assn.
Sale ends Feb. 28, 1987. ©The Fur Vault, Inc. 1987.

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MEN'S FASHION by Anne Anable

"Generally men dress to emulate their peers," commented Chip Tolbert, Fashion Director of the Men's Fashion Association of America, whose job it is to modify forward fashion silhouettes and, conversely, to spice up traditional clothing.

He offers two examples of how he does this. Citing the work of one of American designer on the cutting edge of fashion, who has drawn praise for his oversize greatcoats and zip-closing shirt-jackets, Chip suggests wearing "an ordinary shirt and tie with his clothes, then they work perfectly well." At the other end of the fashion scale, he points out, "One way for a conservative man to have fun with clothes this spring is suspenders. He can wear a traditional dark suit, but sport red polka dot suspenders, if he wants."

Suspenders stand out as one of spring-summer's important accessories, so there's an unusually large choice in the stores. Ever practical, Chip adds that trousers hang truer and are a better length with suspenders—to say nothing of the comfort factor, should a man's stomach silhouette have changed from concave to convex. The double pleated trouser that's rapidly becoming the norm is another plus in that direction.

In tailored clothing, the silhouette is flattering with broader, padded shoulders, fuller chest, wider lapels and slight waist indentation. As suit lapels broaden, ties follow.

Jacket linings and facings are normally lighter weight for warm weather wear, but the lightness and minimum construction factor is part of an overall trend to satisfy the desires of those who hope for the comfort of a sweater in a jacket. At one extreme, this takes the form of doing away with conventional sizing in favor

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of offering all clothing in small, medium, large and extra-large. While Chip believes it will work in sportswear, he doesn't see it succeeding in all categories. "There is just too much varience in men's builds to kill off traditional suit sizing.

"Certainly you do see men going through all sorts of gyrations when trying on suits in stores, in an effort to test comfort. But the modern cut accommodates movement, even though the fit is getting a little more controlled in silhouette."

No matter what the weather, corporate dressing sticks with darker clothes, and dark blues still look like winners this spring and summer (new fabric treatments now offer blues that are really subtle mixes of other shades). Tan, pale gray and light blue lead the lighter summer spectrum, along with that perennial summer survivor, blue and white seersucker. Happily, the latest versions no longer come with ready-made wrinkles. Only linen and madras are encouraged to look rumpled at the moment, and even linen can be treated to hold the line. "Fabric people have finally gotten a good balance, even when they are blending cotton with synthetic fibers," said Chip.

Away from the office, the style-conscious man is going to be wearing a camp shirt this summer, according to Chip's report. And there are still lots of bold Hawaiian prints around for those who love the retro look of the 1950's. The man who won't give up his traditional polo shirt may find this summer's model defined by an extra button or two and a breast pocket.

Sweaters remain the biggest year-round seller, newest-looking in desert tone shades. That puts the basics into the sand-to-faded yellow range, and the bright colors are turquoise or purples.

The western influence is also found in denim's resurgence of popularity, along with western boots, threatening to oust the athletic show for weekend wear among non-joggers. Those who want to carry the western influence even further might consider a denim duster coat. If that's too theatrical, the sturdy cowboy denim jacket that stops at the waist endures forever.

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THE CUSTOM-MADE SAINT LAURIE SUIT: WHO COULD ASK FOR ANYTHING MORE?

A SUIT MADE JUST FOR YOU in the Saint Laurie Custom Department is the best of all possible worlds. It begins with your choice of our 300 fabrics and a detailed set of your measurements taken by our master tailor, to reflect not only your height and weight but also things like your posture and the shape of your shoulders. Then we hand-cut, hand-finish, and hand-press your suit, and hand-top its trousers for comfort and elegant style—to meet the standards of our most exacting customers.

Because we do all this hand tailoring right here in our own building, we can deliver the finished goods in as little as four weeks. And it costs $400 to $675 — about what you'd pay for a suit off somebody else's rack. Who could ask for anything more?

SAINT LAURIE LTD.
NEW YORK MERCHANT~TAILORS
879 Broadway at 20th Street, New York, NY 10003
(212) 473-0100
Custom tailoring by appointment only.

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