Viewing page 21 of 25

This transcription has been completed. Contact us with corrections.

-  21  -

Aug. 21.  We are all packed up to go to Fu Lin tomorrow, and on towards Yachow the next day.

I took some anthropological measurements today besides collecting and caring for specimens and packing for the trip to Fu Lin.

Our stay in Fu Lin has been much of a disappointment.  Not a single mammal, only a few birds, one smake, and some insects.  The one bright spot is that we have secured two sets of Lolo armor.

[[underline]] WARNING [[underline]]: The arrows are all poisoned, and if one cuts himself with one of these arrows it may cost him his life.  That is, this is what the Lolos told me.

Aug. 22.  Started very early, going to Fu Lin.  Repacked and weighed all the boxes and was able to cut down the number of carriers to thirteen instead of fourteen.

Spent some time arranging for the escort and securing money for the return trip.

The local general, head of the Ningyuenfu district, has invited me to take breakfast with him tomorrow morning, has appointed soldiers to escort me, and is writing to the military officer in charge to escort us over the dangerous Da Shiang Lin Pass.

My friend the evangelist Tsang started from here to visit us at Tsao Heo Miao, but when he reached the "Wicked Cliff" he turned back, returning to Fu Lin.  Chinese and Lolos alike are much afraid of that cliff and of the road along its edge.  In one place a slip would mean falling and sliding three hundred feet into the river, in another place nearly 200 feet.  However, this place does not compare at all with the road up Washan, which is easily the most dangerous, or at least by far the most scarey road I have seen in west China.

Aug. 23.  General Yang, the leading military and civil officer of the district from the Da Shiang Lin Pass to Ningyuenfu and Hueilichow, invited me to an early feast today.  I sent the loads ahead.  General Yang sent four soldiers to escort the loads.  I had Yang Fong Tsang and one coolie wait for me.

General Yang gave a very sumptuous feast, inviting the leading men of Fu Lin and the church leaders besides me.  He killed a sheep for this occasion, and there were many delicacies.  I took pictures of General Yang, and all the guests and of five half-breed Lolos.

It must have been eleven o'clock when I got started on my journey.  After the pleasant farewells we walked as rapidly as possible.  Later it became cloudy and began to thunder.  Then it began to rain, and then to pour.  We walked in the rain 20 li, part of the time there being a heavy downpour, arriving at Chin Chi Shian (elevation 6200 feet) after dark.  The main creek soon became a roaring torrent of water filled with mud and a dark red clayey color.  For a long way there was a stream of water running down the path or road, sometimes ankle deep. We had to wade numerous puddles.  On such occasions the Smithsonian knee-high rubber boots are indispensable and a great comfort.  I am arranging for a good escort over the Ta Shiang Lin pass tomorrow.

I was treated in a very courteous and friendly way by General Yang and the other officers and dignitaries at Fu Lin, as I have been practically everywhere on this trip.

Aug. 24. Today we made the hard trip across the Da Shiang Lin Pass. Twenty three