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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS

COMPOSITION OF HAIR-Hair is composed principally of an albuminoid substance called KERATIN, and of inorganic salts. Keratin is present in all outgrowths of the skin; hoofs, horns, feather; and the nails of human beings. Hair is composed of the following chemicals in about the designated proportions:

Carbon 44%
Oxygen 30%
Nitrogen 15%
Hydrogen 6%
Sulphur 5%

CONSTRUCTION OF THE HAIR-The hair consists of two parts: the SHAFT and the BULB, root or radix pili. The Hair Shaft is the part that extends above the surface of the skin. It is also referred to as the stem or trunk. The shaft is composed of three layers of cell structure called the CUTICLE, the CORTEX, and MEDULLA.

1. The CUTICLE, outer or horny-like layer which resembles fish scales or the shingles of a roof and can be distinctly felt when the hair is rufflled from the ends to the roots. This construction proves that it is injurious to back comb, or what is known as ratting the hair. These overlapping layers of cells in the cuticle are called IMBRICATIONS.

2. THE CORTEX, Middle or pigment layers is composed of elongated calls that contain the pigment granules or coloring matter of the hair. This coloring matter found within the cortex is known as MELANIN.

3. The MEDULLA, inner or narrow layer is composed of layers of sponge-like cells running lengthwise with the hair shaft. The fine hairs covering the body (LANUGO) do not have this layer. In diseased hairs of the scalp the Medulla is often totally absent.

The Hair BULB is the socket at the end of the hair beneath the scalp which fits over the papilla from which the hair grows at the lower end of the hair follicle.

TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE

The MOUTH OF THE FOLLICLE is the opening in the scalp where the hair leaves the follicle and protrudes from the scalp.

It may be plainly seen that any improvement in the condition of the hair or of the scalp must come from within. We therefore massage the scalp to increase the circulation, to quiet the nerves, to make the skin more flexible and to strengthen the arrector muscle.

FORMS OF HAIR-Hairs may be ROUND, OVAL, or FLAT. Straight hairs are round; wavy hairs are oval; and curly hairs are flat. Hair is not curly at the follicle; it begins to curl about an inch from the scalp, hence we note the possibility of pressing out the curl by the use of a heated comb.

[[images - 3 cross sections of different kinds of hair]]

CLASSES OF HAIR

1. Straight, as in the Indian.
2. Wavy, as in the Caucasian.
3. Curly, as in the Negro.

TEXTURES OF HAIR-By texture is meant the degree of softness, of the separate hairs, hence we classify it by texture as:
1. Soft.
2. Fine.
3. Coarse or Harsh.

HAIR OF DIFFERENT RACES

Hair differs in the different races. The Mongolian hair is straight and round. The Caucasian hair is more inclined to be curly and is oval in shape. The Negro has flat or ribbon like hair. This affirms the theory that round hair is usually oily and flat or ribbon hair is generally dry.

There has long been a gross misunderstanding and confused idea, both among our group and other groups, as to just why there is such a variation in the texture of the hair of our people. There is a mistaken impression that the color of the skin denotes the texture of the hair, which of course, is erroneous.

Hindoos, Chinese, Japanese and the American Indian have straight, black hair and yet they are dark skinned. Many of our race have light skins but distinctly Negroid features, and we can safely say that the pigmentation of the skin or hair is not involved.

In this country, the difference in the hair texture among our people is caused by the amalgamation or mixture with the so

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