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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS stances. The former being known as extracts and the latter as bouquets. Most of the materials from which perfumes derive the odors come from the vegetable kingdom but there are few exceptions to this rule. The odors of plants are found in different parts of them, sometimes in the roots as in the iris; sometimes in the wood as in cedar and sandal; in the leaves as in mint and thyme; the flower as in the rose and violet; the bark as in cinnamon; and sometimes in the seeds as in caraway. Some trees like the orange tree for instance yield more than one odor. In its leaves are to be found one odor, in its flowers another and from the rind of its fruit still another odor is derived. In nearly all cases the fragrance or odor of plants is due to the presence of a volatile oil in the small vessels or sacs within them or is generated from time to time during their life as when they are in blossom. By scientific processes known as expression, distillation, maceration, and absorption these odors are drawn off and become known as essential oils or ottos. The degree of purity of these essential oils are classified as bouquets, spirits, essences, and extracts. These essential oils or ottos in combination with pure, deodorized alcohol result in the exotic perfumes so dear to the heart of every woman. While the number of flowers and sources perfumers use to obtain the essential odors is limited, by judicious blending almost any odor may be obtained. TOILET WATERS are either highly diluted solutions of the spiritous oils or distilled water largely charged with the odor of flowers in which it was used in the process of distillation. COLOGNES result from a special change in the alcohol when in contact with the essential oils and improve in delicacy of odor as they grow older. TOILET SOAPS Animal or vegetable fats form the base for all soaps. To this is added soda, potash or some other suitable alkalai. Coloring matter, flower oil and water softening agents may be included to make the soap more attractive and efficacious. Only fresh, clean fats are used in making toilet soaps and there is no excess of alkali, nor non-essential ingredients to be found in soaps of this class. 128 TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE HARDWATER SOAPS and shaving soaps are usually made with cocoanut oil as a base because of the free lathering quality of this oil. FLOATING SOAPS are made by mixing air with the soap when it is in liquid state during manufacture. Good Castile soaps are made with pure olive oil as the base, to which a mild alkali is added. In the cheaper castile soaps cocoanut oil is substituted for olive oil, illegally, but not without wide use. GREEN SOAP is made of linseed oil and potash to which alcohol is added. Tincture of Green Soap is ordinary green soap dissolved in alcohol. MEDICATED SOAPS are made by adding some chemical substance to the liquid soap such as pine tar to make tar soap; carbolic acid to make carbolic soap, etc. It should be borne in mind that cheap soaps are made from cheap, impure fats and strong alkalies which wreak great damage to the tender tissues of the skin. Just because soaps work rapidly in removing dirt is no recommendation to their continued use. HAIR DYES- See chapter on Hair Dyeing. NAIL POLISH- There are several formulas for making nail polishes but as a general thing they are made by mixing white castile soap, zinc chloride or fine tin oxide, hot water or glycerine to which carmine is added to color. Nail enamels in addition to the above ingredients usually contain white wax, paraffine and chloroform, ether or banana oil. DEODORANTS Several types of deodorants are being marketed today; liquid, paste and powders. Each type has its own merit but they are all akin in that they contain some ingredient designed to neutralize body odors. Soda, boric acid, orris root, aromatic calamus, zinc oleate, salicylic acid combined with rose leaves, lavender flowers or some essential oil to provide the desired fragrance, are some of the substances used in making deodorants. DEPILATORIES These products created to remove superfluous hair are also to be found in liquid, paste and powder form. They are compounds of alcohol, iodine, turpentine, castor oil, collodion, soda, quicklime, barium sulphide and powdered orris root, mixed in specific proportions 129
Transcription Notes:
In the book coconut is spelled cocoanut so I left it to the original spelling.
