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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS proportions. No one depilatory hardly contains all these ingredients but the different types contain varying combinations of them. EYEBROW AND EYE LASH DYES Dyestuffs such as will be studied more thoroughly in the chapter on hair dyeing are a great part of eyebrow and lash dyes; aniline or coal tar products forming their base to which is added other chemicals. EYE WASHES Highly diluted argyrol and boric acid solution made from carefully distilled water constitute the ingredients of safe eye washes. HAND LOTIONS Glycerine, tragacanth and water form the base for lotions designed to keep the hands soft and free from chap. To this is added benzoin, tannin, boric acid, honey, or witch hazel to cleanse and bleach the skin; almond oil, oil of bergamot, rose or lavender water or other perfume for the desired fragrance. HAIR PREPARATIONS. This is a large general heading, there being so many different preparations used in caring for the hair. For the purpose of brevity we may divide them into four general groups; Shampoos, Pressing oils, Scalp Foods, Dressings. Whereas in the strictest sense they are not cosmetics, we shall discuss them briefly here that you might know something of their chemical content and their efficacy. SHAMPOOS These are preparations used in washing or cleansing the hair. Good shampoos all contain some ingredient, soda, potash, or other alkali that dissolves dirt, oil and other foreign particles on the hair and scalp. A fatty or oil compound forms its base and to this are added such other ingredients in addition to the alkalai, as water, alcohol, cotton seed or other oil and perfume. Liquid Shampoos differ from hard soaps or shampoos in that they have a higher content of distilled water. Pine, mint, tar, olive oil, lemon and other liquid shampoos are called so because of their color, perfume and a small amount of that oil in the compound to give perfume. PRESSING OILS are highly important to us as beauticians. They along with our ability to handle our tools efficiently will make or mar us. Petrolatum or petroleum jelly is the most satisfactory basis used for pressing oils. There are many grades of 130 TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE this compound on the market selling for a few cents to as much as several dollars per pound, depending upon its purity. With the varying quality of base materials for pressing oils it is easy to understand how some unscrupulous manufacturers substitute the cheaper grades in their products and make up the deficiency with other "fillers" which serve only to gum the hair and cause it to become sour and rancid. A good pressing oil is made of highly refined petrolatum of heavy consistency and contains a minimum of other materials. SCALP FOODS may be further classified as dandruff remedies, hair growers and tonics. Dandruff remedies may contain petrolatum, glycerin, alcohol, salicylic acid, coloring matter and essential oils for fragrance. Stimulants to hair growth contain in addition to the foregoing ingredients, precipitated sulphur, tincture of quillaja, betanapthol, resorcin, capsicum, etc. Tonics contain quinine, balsam, ammonia, cinchona, etc., mixed usually with petrolatum, glycerin, alcohol or distilled water in quantity sufficient to make a paste or liquid. Bay rum, cologne or essential oils are added for fragrance and pigments sometimes to add color. DRESSINGS—Like brilliantine are made with fresh, pure suet, wax, and sesame oil as the base. To this is added castor oil and mucilage made from tragacanth, perfumed with essential oils and colored to suit. Other bases sometimes used in brilliantine are lard, and spermacetti. Pomades which also fall within the class of hair dressings are made in this same general way differing more or less in chemical contenting details of manufacture. It has not been our intention to attempt to detail to you the process of manufacturing cosmetics, nor to set down detailed formula. Indeed that is a study in itself, separate and apart from what even a well trained beautician is expected to know. We have sought to give you an acquaintance with the science of chemistry, in turn its application to Beauty Culture and how from this science we derive certain compounds, which when combined bring into being various preparations we use in the practice of beauty culture. It should always be remembered to leave the preparation of oils, salves, lotions, powders and other cosmetics used in your work to skilled chemists, persons possessing full knowledge of the danger of mixing one thing with the other. The best rule to follow is stick to your practice of beauty culture and use in your practice only the preparations of reputably good manufacturers, like The Madam C. J. Walker Manufacturing Company. 131
