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CHAPTER FIFTEEN SHAMPOOS AND RINSES Shampoos, as Madam C.J. Walker operators are taught to give them, are recognized aids to scalp health as well as a cleansing agent. Many new patrons are added to a shop's clientele by the thoroughness with which a shampoo is given and the invigorating benefits which it brings. Next to scalp treatments, shampooing is the most important aid to a healthy scalp, for the first essential in maintaining a healthy condition in any part of the human system is cleanliness. It is to be remembered that a shampoo is given not only to cleanse the hair but to stimulate the scalp. Merely a clean scalp and hair are not the only benefits to be derived from a good shampoo. The kneading, rolling, and rubbing of the scalp and the absorption of the healing oils, which are encased in Madam C. J. Walker's Vegetable Shampoo, and Madam C. J. Walker's Vegetable Oil Soap, will keep a normally healthy scalp in the pink of condition. FREQUENCY OF SHAMPOOS Every scalp, though in the best of health, should be thoroughly cleansed as often as once every two weeks. However, no fixed schedule can be arranged, for the frequency of shampoos is dependent upon other conditions which will alter the time between them. Much depends on the length of the hair, the proper functioning of the sebaceous glands, and the locality in which one lives. Persons living in coal mining district or smokey manufacturing center are required to shampoo the hair more often than those who live in sections of the country where the air is more pure and fragrant. For the patron with the ordinary head of hair who lives in a moderately clean district, the shampoo is necessary about once every two weeks. If the district is dirty, we advise a shampoo every ten days, or even more often if the operator feels that it is required. A man's hair, and hair which is closely bobbed, should be shampooed every week. Hair which is excessively oily is not rendered less oily by constant shampooing, and a dry shampoo, which will be explained in a later chapter, may be given in between shampoos, with beneficial effect. It is a known fact that frequent shampoos cannot harm the hair unless the shampoo soap leaves a deposit of some insoluble substance on the hair that the rinsing can not carry away. 132 TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE PREPARING PATRON FOR SHAMPOO In preparing the patron for a shampoo attach a sanitary paper strip about her neck and place the shampoo apron around her neck so as to cover her shoulders and clothes. After letting down the hair and removing all combs, pins or ornaments, remove all tangles by brushing straight down from the roots to the ends of the hair. If the hair is badly matted from illness, it may be necessary to rub hot mineral oil into it before beginning to shampoo. In this case, add a small quantity of alcohol to your first shampoo mixture. If the hair is only badly tangled, saturate the tangled strands with alcohol before combing them through. You are now ready for the dandruff removing process which we will call dry cleaning. DRY CLEANING Your patron is now relaxed and comfortable, for no matter what treatment is being given, the operator should always secure absolute comfort for the patron if she is to get the most beneficial results. Expert beauticians will always brush the hair before proceeding with a shampoo, and loosen the scalp with a few quick scalp manipulations. This serves to further relax the patron and makes her feel she is getting something extra and different in the way of a shampoo. Then, part the hair from the middle of the forehead, through the center of the head, down the back of the neck. Next part the hair from ear to ear. The parts of the hair thus divided may be again divided into smaller portions, depending upon the length and heaviness of hair. With a firm rubber comb with blunt teeth, go over the entire scalp with a circular motion, scratching up and lifting from the scalp all dandruff and any dirt and grime that has accumulated. The comb used for this purpose should be eight or nine inches long, and should be held in a slanting position as in the illustration. Many times the patron's scalp may [[image - Parting the Hair]] 133