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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS

WITH THINNING SHEARS- This is done with specially made scissors whose blades are notched and grooved. Take a few strands of hair between the fingers. Spread it well, and cut it by means of simply closing the thinning shears, holding them at right angles to the hair. The cuts are made starting about one inch from the scalp and repeated toward the ends of the hair, at regular intervals, the width of which depends upon the thickness of the hair. Then the hair strands are combed out to remove the cut hair ends. 

WITH A RAZOR- When using a razor for this purpose the hair should be wet so that it will lie in place and will not pull. Proceed by laying the razor on the hair, almost flat about one inch from the scalp, and cut the hair as the razor is moved from the scalp toward the end. Changing the angle with which the razor is held will change the amount of hair removed.
 
CLIPPING

Rough, uneven hair is sometimes benefitted by a process known as clipping. Clipping smoothes the individual strands of hair and promotes its growth. The need for this operation is recognized by the end of the hair appearing faded, dull, and lifeless. 

After the shampoo is given and all tangles are removed from the hair, divide it into four parts as has been previously explained, and pin up all but one section. A clipping may then be given on the loose section. Insert the comb with the left hand and raise half of the part or portion of hair. With the right hand spread the hair over the length of the comb. Pull tight with the thumb resting against the comb. With the shears held in the right hand, run them along the hair and clip the small ends that protrude through the teeth of the comb. Then raise the extreme ends of the hair up and cut from one fourth to one half inch off of the ends. Repeat this operation with the lower half of the portion and on the three other sections or parts of the hair. 

There are many styles of cuts or bobs. Consult the patron on the particular style she desires. If it is left to the judgement of the operator, cut the hair in the style that is best suited to the patron's features. When hair is to be waved, it is cut longer than when allowed to remain straight to take care of the shrinkage due to the waving. 

THE SHINGLE BOB

This has been the most popular type of bob and is worn frequently by girls and young matrons. Shingling is characterized

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TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE

[[image - Cutting Long Hair the First Time]]

by the hair being cut very short at the back of the head. To obtain this short effect, begin to cut with the shears guided by the comb, about one half inch in back of the ear on the right side. Cut off very small amounts of hair at first and work up and across the head to within one half inch of the left ear. The difficulty in this cut lies in cutting the hair evenly. Go over the same part several times until the job is free of shear marks. In shingling the back of the head, the comb is titlted until its back rests against the patron's head. As the cutting progresses up the back, cut the hair protruding through the teeth of the comb evenly. The shingle being completed, the operator is now ready to smoothe off the edge left in back of the ears. This is done by picking up several strands of hair with the blades of the shears, taking hold of their ends with the left hand. With the blades of the shears, pass up the strand of hair, cutting only a few of the hairs from under part of the strands. Repeat this several times until you obtain the 



and the operation is spoken of as the "trim up." It may be cut straight down on each side with an upward turn at the ears, it may be rounded or cut in a "V" shape known as the "pineapple trim." It may also be gradually tapered out without leaving any definite edge. This is termed the "feather edge." In giving this latter trim, great care must be exercised in cutting so as to give a very gradual slant from the lowest point on the neck where the hair grows, to the crown of the head. As one desired thinness. 

[[image - Preparing for the Shingle]]

[[image - Shingling]]

The hair on the lower part of the neck may be trimmed in a number of different ways. It is here that the clippers are used becomes more and more expert, the tendency to leave a ridge where the cutting stops will be overcome by lightly trimming the ridge. 

THE SWIRL BOB 

This is a new vogue which has brought the English method of thinning the hair to the American operator. The hair must 

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Transcription Notes:
154 155 [[image: profile view of a woman's head with long hair receiving a haircut with shears]] [[image: behind view of a woman's head with hair sectioned off and parted]] [[image: behind view of a woman's head with hair pulled back as it is cut with shears]]