Viewing page 79 of 147

This transcription has been completed. Contact us with corrections.

THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS

be thinned out on the side of the head on which the patron desires the swirl. The back of the head must also be thinned.

THE STRAIGHT BOB

[[image]] 
Cutting the Straight Bob

This is sometimes called the round bob, the hair being cut even all around the head. This cut is given when the hair is being cut for the first time. In executing the straight bob, first comb the hair straight down all around the head. Begin cutting about an inch below the ears and cut straight around the head. This is too long, of course, but it may be shortened when the retrimming is begun. Be sure to leave the hair of ample length if it is to be waved. Usually about one half inch below the ear will leave the hair the proper length after the wave is put in. If the hair is to be worn straight, it should reach the lower tips of the ears.

In giving the straight bob, after the outline has been made smooth all around, cut the inner, under edge, next to the neck a little shorter so that the outer edge turns under as the hairs fall in place. This is the effect usually desired by patrons wearing the straight bob. This type of bob is often worn with a pin or barrette, and dips. When the patron desires to wear her hair in this manner, part the hair from temple to temple around the head and tie or pin up the portion thus parted so it will not be in the way. When cutting around the neck and ears has been completed, unpin this part of the hair and comb it down into place to form the desired dips. Pin or tie with a barrette and trim the lower strands so that they will be even with the lowest part of the hair.

Very often the straight bob is worn with the lower portion thinned so that it will lay close to the head. This is done by trimming the under side of the lower edge with the comb and shears. Lift several strands of hair with the shears. Hold the lifted hair with the comb and cut a little at a time from the under side.

After a smooth and even cut has been given and the dip or thin edge completed, run the clippers up from the lowest growth of the hair on the neck just up to the edge, beginning on one side of the neck and working up to the line of the hair. Go around the neck in this manner, cutting a space each time about two thirds of the width of the clippers so as to leave no streaks on

156

TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE

the back of the neck. Always cut up or against the direction in which the hair is inclined to grow with the clippers.

BANGS AND FRINGES

Sometimes a little long hair is left in front of the ears, in both the straight and the shingle bob. This is done by tapering out the hair, over and in back of the ears, cutting away the hair at the bottom and cutting at an angle toward the top, using the comb and shears. Bobbed hair is worn with or without bangs or fringes. If desired, learn which style the patron prefers, as there are several different styles which can be trimmed. For the straight bob, the heart shape, straight across or diagonal are the most popular. The dip is worn with either the shingle or the straight bob. Bangs are cut by combing the hair over the forehead straight down and cutting with the points of blades of the shears. If the bangs are to be worn curled they should always be left a little longer than if worn straight as curling will naturally take up some of the length.

[[image]] 
Tapering Behind the Ears

[[image]] 
Method Used in Cutting Bangs

The types of bobs just explained, the shingle and the straight bob are the fundamentals of all other types of hair bobbing. To learn to cut them is to have basic knowledge of how to cut all other types. These same instructions apply to the cutting of children's hair also. When bobbing a child's hair, the little one should be seated high enough to permit the operator to work sitting down, and in comfort.

[[image]]
The Feather Edge Neck Line

[[image]] 
The Round Neck Line

[[image]]
The V-Shaped Neck Line

NECK LINES. There are four styles of cutting the hair that grows on the back of the head and neck, known as the Neck-line.

157