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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS 3. Cover the spot with collodion or "New Skin" and allow to remain undisturbed for at least twenty-four hours. 4. Remove the covering and sponge with soap and water. At the end of the twenty-four hour test period, remove the covering and sponge with soap and water, if the skin remains normal in color, no pimples appear, no signs of swelling of the glands, and there is no other evidence of irritation or poisoning, the patron is considered immune to the dye and you may proceed with the treatment. If, however, you are in doubt of the results of this test, make another test in the same spots, and allow it to remain for another twenty-four hours before proceeding. One can not be too careful in preparing to dye. DYE POISONING It is important that a well trained beautician be familiar with the symptoms of hair dye poisoning in case she is confronted with such a condition by a stranger or transient customer coming to you after having her hair dyed elsewhere. The symptoms of hair dye poisoning are as follows: 1. Swelling of the glands. 2. Ulcers or sores. 3. Pus-forming pimples. 4. Itching red spots which may spread all over the body. 5. Headaches, anemia, vomiting, loss of appetite, and weight. If any of these symptoms are apparent, advise the patron to see her doctor. SOFTENERS OR NEUTRALIZERS In dyeing and retouching hair it will sometimes be found advisable to give a preliminary softening. Especially is this true with very coarse hair which will be found more difficult to dye than fine hair, and in cases where there is an accumulation of old dye on the hair which is noticeable in streaks and of uneven shades. Hydrogen Peroxide of 17 volume strength, which means that is contains a certain amount of available oxygen, is the preparation commonly used as a softener or neutralizer. It is a clear liquid with a bitter taste and a pungent odor; full strength peroxide will blister the skin and for that reason should be applied to the hair and not allowed to dry. Peroxide should be kept in a cool place and tightly corked since the usefulness of the preparation depends upon the quantity of 162 TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE oxygen it will yield when the bottle is opened. Peroxide deteriorates quickly. Most of the aniline dyes use peroxide as the B liquid, 2 liquid, or colorless liquid because it acts as an oxidizing agent to mix with and develop the properties of the A, 1 or colored liquid into permanent dye. The hydrogen peroxide softens and makes the hair shaft slightly porous so that it may absorb the dye more readily. The time of softening varies from 10 to 20 minutes, depending upon the texture of the hair. Fine hair requires less time than the medium or coarse hair. Too little softening may cause an uneven tint, or perhaps result in the failure of the dye to "take". Too much softening will have a bleaching effect and the shade resulting from the application of the dye will be too dark, because the bleached hair has become very porous and will absorb too much color. Your own experience and best judgment should guide you in handling the particular case at hand. PROCESS OF SOFTENING Some cases may require a mere peroxide rinse which can be done by mixing about 2 oz. of peroxide into a porcelain vessel with 1 pint of water and pouring the mixture over the hair several times after giving a thorough shampoo and plain rinse. Other cases may require only dabbing the roots of the hair with a piece of cotton which has been wet with peroxide, since it is the roots most difficult to take the proper shade. Other cases may require applying the softener thoroughly over the entire head. This may be done in much the same way the dye is applied. Free the hair of tangles after the shampoo and divide it into sections and with a small brush or applicator apply the softener; moisten the hair well from the roots to the ends, but not too lavishly. Twist the wet strands into loose knots and pin up with hairpins. When the entire head has been covered, let the hair down and draw a comb through lightly to distribute the softener equally over the hair. Allow the hair to hang free from 10 to 20 minutes and when the time is up, fan the hair dry or use the electric dryer. Never allow peroxide to dry naturally on the hair when it is used only as a softener. Peroxide, when used as a softener, may or may not need the addition of ammonia which quickens the action of the softening process but also has a bleaching effect. The texture and color of the hair are your best guides as to when and how much ammonia is to be used. Coarse and dark hair requires a stronger solution 163
