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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS

than fine light hair. A few drops of 28% ammonia added to the peroxide will be found sufficient in ordinary cases of softening. 

SELECTING THE SHADE OF DYE

This is an important matter. The majority of patrons for hair dyes will be those whose hair is turning gray, and the natural color will still be noticeable on much of the ungrayed hair. Select a shade of dye slightly lighter than the natural color of the patron's hair, remembering that when more color is applied the result will always be a darker shade. It is easy to add more color and darken the hair; but to remove excess color and lighten the hair is a more difficult process. 

PROCESS OF HAIR DYEING

Even though there are several different classes of dyes, the process of hair dyeing remains the same no matter what kind of dye is used. The closer the operator observes the chemical effect of dyes upon the hair the better she is prepared to please her patron. 

First, the hair must be given a thorough shampoo in the regular way. It is very important that the hair is absolutely clean and that no grease remains in the strands, for the dye cannot penetrate oil and grease. For this reason, do not massage the scalp while the hair is drying because massage will cause the sebaceous glands to throw off oil. For the same reason, do not brush the hair while it is being dried, but comb lightly through it so that there will be no tangles when the dye is applied. 

After the hair has been thoroughly dried, seat the patron comfortably and in a position where you may get as much daylight as possible. Impress the patron that time and patience must be had to insure results. Make your charge ample so that you may allow plenty of time for the operation. 

The patron should then be covered with a large black rubber apron, not neglecting the shoes which might be spotted with dye if they are permitted to remain uncovered. A thin coating of Madam C. J. Walker's Cleansing Cream should be applied around the entire hair line to prevent the dye from discoloring or sticking to the skin around the forehead and neck. Next cover the cleansing cream with thin strips of medicated cotton, about two inches wide, to prevent any loose hairs from getting into the cleansing cream. This keeps the hair clean and dry so that it will readily accept the dye and at the same time provides a safeguard against the dye seeping down from the scalp. 

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TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE

Wrap a towel around the patrons neck and place another clean towel in her hands so that she may wipe away any dye that may accidently reach her face. The operator should wear rubber gloves and use black combs only when applying the dye. 

APPLYING THE DYE

First, part the hair through the center of the head, from the middle of the forehead to the back of the neck. Again part the hair in the opposite direction, from ear to ear. Divide the quarters you now have into eighths, sixteenths, and if the hair is quite heavy, into thirty-two equal parts or strands. Pin up all of the strands except the one on which you are to begin the operation.

Before beginning to dye the hair upon the head, cover a sample of hair with the dye and submit it to the patron for her approval. If the sample is satisfactory you are then ready to begin work on the actual head. Always pour the dye to be used into a porcelain vessel and a small tooth brush, dye brush, or applicator should be used for the application. Allow no metal to touch the dye for it may change its chemical composition and destroy its efficacy. Mix small portions of the dye at a time. Begin at the front of the head, apply the dye to the first strand with the small toothbrush, dye-brush or applicator. Brush from the scalp to the ends, if the hair has never been dyed before or if the entire head of hair is to be dyed. Be sure that the dye covers each strand completely. Take the strands down, one by one from front to back and apply the dye until the entire head is gone over, being careful to use just enough dye to cover the hair but never so much as to wet the scalp and begin to run upon the customer.

The length of time to leave the dye on the hair will vary, depending upon the texture of the hair. Fine hair may need only 10 to 15 minutes of contact with the dye to develop the desired shade, while coarse hair may require 15 to 30 minutes, or even require a second application after the first one. The point to remember is the dye must continue in contact with the hair until the proper shade is developed. Since the ends are more porous than the rest of the hair, they must be WATCHED CAREFULLY to see that they do not darken too quickly. When they appear

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Parting the Hair in Preparation for Dyeing.

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