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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS

approaching the desired shade, comb the dye through to the ends of the hair and proceed to spray the hair with water as hot the patron can stand, in order to stop at once the development of the shade. The hair is then shampooed lightly with a mild soap, rinsed, thoroughly dried; and while it is not the best practice to apply heat to dyed hair until a lapse of 24 hours if the customer requires it, proceed to press the hair lightly, and dress as the patron desires. 

[[image - Applying the Dye]]

If the hair has been previously dyed and has grown out from the roots in its original color, be careful not to allow any of the dye to penetrate the hair that has already been dyed because each time the dye touches that portion, the hair becomes a shade darker. Hair that has already been dyed is very porous and for this reason, the dye must be applied to the part of the hair that has grown out only. This extreme care is not necessary in dyeing jet black hair because the new growth of hair is also very black. 

[[image - Firm pressure on each strand is necessary to insure best results.]]

RETOUCHING—In cases where the hair has already been dyed and has grown out to its natural color for a portion of its length, the method of dyeing the grown out hair is referred to as retouching. If the dye touches the part of the hair that was dyed previously the hair becomes yet darker because the dyed hair is the most porous. For this reason, in retouching, the dye application should extend only to the end of the gray section. 

[[image - After the entire head has been Dyed, Allow to Dry.]] 

Retouching is a real test of the skill of an operator. It is much more difficult that dyeing an entire head of hair. The dye must be applied with a brush and should be brushed from the end of the gray part toward the scalp. 

In brushing the dye toward the roots, the operator will prevent touching the portion of the hair that has already been dyed and avoid leaving a streak or mark or overlap which would show where the retouching was begun. 

[[image - Retouching. Note Downward Stroke of Brush.]] 

PREVENT OVERLAPPING—Overlapping will not occur if the operator is careful to use a brush or applicator that is not too wet and if, in 

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TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE 

[[image - Drying Hair to Prevent Overlapping.]] 

the event a softener has been used, it nor the dye is applied to the point where the hair has already been dyed. 

Should overlapping occur pick up the strand of hair and insert the fine side of a comb where the moisture ends. Turn the comb up. Hold it so, and using a dry piece of absorbent cotton, dry the hair. Continue this process until the hair has been dried to the point where the retouch ends. 

Hot oil treatments, using Madam C. J. Walker's Wonderful Hair Grower should be given before the final shampoo is given to dyed or retouched hair. This prevents the hair from becoming dry and brittle and aids in keeping it soft and oily. 

HENNA PACKS 

The use of henna is one of the oldest and safest methods of coloring hair known to man. It is said that the Egyptians used it with excellent results long before the beginning of history. It continues to be a popular and dependable product for dyeing and tinting the hair. Make a paste with three tablespoonsful of Henna Powder and warm water. This paste should be of the same thickness as starch. Place this mixture in a porcelain double boiler, allowing the water to boil, but be very careful not to allow the paste to boil, as boiling will destroy the efficiency of the henna and failure is certain. Pour one tablespoonful of good vinegar into the paste, or the juice of one lemon. 

Before preparing the paste, shampoo and rinse the patron's head thoroughly. Wipe the water from the head of the patron, but do not dry the hair because the henna should be applied to the head while the hair is still damp. Separate the hair into small strands and apply the henna as hot as the patron can bear it. Cover every strand of hair completely, being careful to rub the henna well into the roots. 

[[image - Begin Applying Henna Paste at Back of Head.]]

Begin the application of henna paste in the back of the head and work rapidly around each side. This will leave the top and front of the hair to be worked on last and should the hair be made too red, it will not be the front part which, of course is the most conspicuous. The paste should remain on blonde hair for from four to seven minutes. It may remain on dark hair 20 

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