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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS

to 30 minutes or even longer, because there is little danger of getting dark hair too red. The length of time, however, will depend entirely upon the head to be dyed. In warm weather henna acts more rapidly than in cold weather.

With the hot paste all over the head, proceed rapidly to incase the head in waxed paper over which a hot towel is wrapped and finally wrap a newspaper over all. This will keep the paste hot and hasten its action.

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Henna Pack Incased in Wax Paper

After the henna paste has remained on the hair for the desired length of time, it should be removed with warm (not hot) water. Continue to rinse the hair until the water runs clear from the head. After all the paste has been removed from the hair, add a tablespoonful of vinegar to a pint of warm water. Pour this mixture over the head in order to set the color. Now give a regular shampoo, using Madam C.J. Walker's Vegetable Oil Soap, as described in plain shampoo. After thoroughly rinsing the hair and after it has been dried, the patron and the operator should both feel compensated for the time and trouble required, for if the operation is done as explained, the hair should glow with lustre and delight the patron.

Apply Madam C.J. Walker's Glossine and finish as the patron desires. If time permits, it is always advisable to allow several hours to elapse between the application of henna, or any dye and the use of hot irons.

COMPOUND HENNA PACK-This is a mixture of henna powder and dye. There are many different brands on the market. All of them, however, no matter what the trade name might be are mixed in about the same manner and contain about the same chemical mixtures and are applied in the same general manner as the Egyptian Henna Pack. Read and follow the directions contained on the particular brand you may be called upon to use.

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TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE

BLEACHING

BLEACHING is the reverse process of hair dyeing. We dye the hair to darken it but we bleach to make a lighter color, always. Bleaching is not necessarily injurious, unless it is done too often and is repeatedly applied to the entire head, when it is only necessary to retouch the roots from time to time. It should be remembered that the bleaching solution always runs from the roots to the ends and it is the ends of the hair that receive most of the solution. Constant application soon makes the ends dry and brittle.

BLEACHING SOLUTION

Three tablespoonsful of 17 volume peroxide and one teaspoonful of 28% ammonia mixed in a china or porcelain vessel will make a satisfactory bleaching solution.

PROCESS OF BLEACHING

Prepare the patron to receive a bleach in the same manner as for hair dyeing. Give a thorough shampoo and rinse. Divide the hair into small strands of hair with a small toothbrush, swab or applicator which is saturated in the solution, but which should not be so wet that it drips. Apply the solution at the roots and work toward the ends of the hair. Do not leave the ends too wet as this will cause them to be lighter than the rest of the hair. Go over the entire head of hair in this manner and when finished allow to stand about 10 minutes and dry the hair by fanning or with the electric hair dryer.

If this application does not give the hair the desired lightness of shade, it may be repeated, but the solution must be applied only half way from the roots toward the ends. If this precaution is not observed, the hair will be far too light at the ends because the roots are less susceptible to the bleach and the bleach works its way down the hair shaft from the roots to the ends. As many as three applications of the bleach may be made in one day, never more. In some cases four or five applications of the solution will be necessary to obtain the desired shade because some hair is much more porous than others. Even if the hair is a little darker than desired when it is given its last application, the operator must remember that it requires twenty-four hours to develop the full action of the bleach, and it is best to watch the shade after that time before proceeding further.

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