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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS

A good shampoo will cause the bleaching solution to cease its actions, hence when the hair has reached the desired shade proceed to shampoo as usual, avoiding strong alkali soaps.

After the bleaching process is concluded, the hair may be pressed after after Glossine is applied in the usual manner. However, if hot irons are to be used, the hair should be left a trifle darker than the desired shade, as the application of hot irons will hasten the action of the bleach.

[[image - Apply Bleach to Roots and Work Toward the Ends of the Hair.]]

A properly given bleach will last about six weeks, after which it will be necessary to lighten the hair again near the roots. In touching up bleached hair it will be found that just as many applications of bleach are required to match the new growth of hair as it did to bleach the hair originally. If it took three applications and 15 minutes between each, in obtaining the desired shade at first, an equal number of applications in the same time will be needed to bleach out the new growth of hair to match the old.

WHITE HENNA HAIR BLEACH

Two tablespoonfuls of bleaching peroxide and one teaspoonful of 28% ammonia are mixed with enough white Henna or magnesia powder to form a paste. Apply the paste to the hair with a small brush and allow it to remain on the hair until the desired shade is reached. This is a very safe bleach to use because the magnesia powder has a tendency to soften the effects of the peroxide and ammonia and lessen the chance of injury to the hair. Shampoo as usual and dress to suit.

White Henna is especially useful in bleaching out streaks and spots in the hair and because of it remaining where placed, is more advantageous to use in such cases than a liquid bleach.

Yellow streaks in white hair may be bleached by applying a mixture of one part common table salt to two parts of bleaching peroxide.

TO REMOVE OLD DYE

There are many dye removers on the market, many of which are excellent. In removing old dye from the hair select some one of them and follow the directions accompanying the package. When dark spots are seen on the hair after the hair has been dyed, they

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TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE

may be bleached with peroxide to which a few drops of ammonia have been added.  It is advisable, however, before resorting to peroxide and ammonia, for the operator to attempt to brighten the dark spots with equal mixture of caster oil and kerosene.  Apply this mixture to the dark spots with a small brush.

If the hair has already been dyed by henna packs and has assumed a greenish hue, it is best to use hot oil treatments or a greasy dye remover before attempting to dye the hair again.  If there are streaks of very dark hair throughout the head, attempt to bleach them out with peroxide.  Never apply these bleaching solutions, especially peroxide and ammonia, without the permission of the patron for they are hard to work with and require ample time for good results.

BRIGHTENING DYED HAIR

If after dyeing a head of hair with either of the henna dyes the shade is too dark, it may be lightened somewhat by applying a paste made by mixing white henna powder and peroxide to the dark spots. Allow the paste to remain on the hair for twenty minutes and remove with hot water.

If after dyeing a head of hair with liquid dye, the shade is too dark, it may be lightened by applying peroxide with a small piece of absorbent cotton. Allow this application to dry slowly without the assistance of fanning or the hair dryer. If the hair is still too dark, the application may be repeated as the end of twenty-four hours.

EFFECT OF DYE ON TEXTURE OF HAIR

Regular dyeing results in changing the texture of the hair. Extreme brittleness, coarseness and loss of lustre of dyed hair are due to:

1. Excessive use of peroxide and ammonia.

2. Continuous use of compound henna or dyes containing copper.

3. Repeated use of "para" and ammonia dyes.

RECONDITIONING THE HAIR

The constant use of hair dyes and bleaches over a period of years will cause the hair to become nearly ruined and impervious to more dye. That is, the outer cells of the hair becomes so coated with different dyes that new dye fails to adhere and penetrate these layers, or "take." Hair in this condition needs what is known as RECONDITIONING. This is a process of removing the old dye and restoring

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