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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS ing the hair to its normal condition so that it can be dyed, tinted or bleached with success. While there are many commercial hair dye removers on the market, the safest and simplest method of reconditioning hair is to give a series of hot oil treatments. These treatments will soften and remove the coats of old dye deposited on the hair, and while they can not remove a color that has soaked into the hair cells, their effect will be to prepare the hair to obtain the best possible results when the fresh dye is applied. TREATMENT --Mix equal parts of kerosene and a vegetable or crude mineral oil. With a piece of cotton dipped into this solution, wipe down the strands of hair. If there is an electric steamer in the shop, expose the hair to the steaming process for a period of 15 minutes. If the electric steamer is not available steam the hair with hot towels or lift the moistened strands of hair between the blades of a warm curling iron or with a warm pressing comb and draw them along the length of the hair. Do this several times and the old dye will be neutralized. Hair that is baldy coated with dye and is streaked, dry, and brittle from over dyeing will need more than one such treatment to restore it to a really good contain for dyeing. Make this known to your customer and urge her cooperation with you by taking enough of the reconditioning treatments to remove all the old dye and to improve the texture of her hair before having it dyed again. It is a safe rule to give at least one hot oil treatment before dyeing any head that has been dyed or bleached before. This will soften the hair and make it easier to dye. It should be remembered though, that the presence of even a small amount of oil on the hair prevents the dye from taking and because of that, the hair and scalp should be shampooed well and rinsed thoroughly after the hot oil treatment and before dyeing is attempted. Sometimes one shampoo is not enough to rid the hair of all the oil and a second shampoo must be given. To be sure of the best possible results in dyeing, make certain the hair is cleansed of every particle of oil and dirt or any agent that might offer resistance to the dye in its effort to penetrate the strands of hair. SUGGESTIONS FOR DYEING, TINTING AND BLEACHING Dyeing is done best in a well ventilated and naturally lighted room. Do not guarantee results. Dyeing should be done at the patron's risk only. Allow plenty of time for the operation. Hair TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE coloring can not be done satisfactorily as a rush job. Make your price sufficient to cover the time required. This is one of the best paying branches of beauty culture and must not be performed too cheaply. Use the utmost precaution to protect the patron's skin, clothes, and shoes from the dye. The operator should wear a rubber apron and rubber gloves. However, an expert operator can so practice the art of hair dyeing so that floors, hands, clothes and above all the customer are spotless upon the completion of the work. Do not attempt to dye hair on a scalp that has any kind of inflammation, better, eczema, pimples, cuts or abrasions. This is danger-ous. It is always best when in doubt about the patron's health, to give the skin test. Make certain that the hair is absolutely clean and free from dust and oil. Soap left in the hair will prevent good results. It is not possible to dye hair lighter than the original color without first bleaching it to a shade lighter than the one desired. Peroxide and ammonia, if used too frequently have a tendency to dry out the hair. When the hair is dry, brittle and coarse from previous coloring use the reconditioning process to restore it to a normal state. Virgin hair and hair that is coarse and resists the dye should be softened and given a second application of the color. Select the right shade of dye. Positively no metal containers should be used for holding the dye. Porcelain, china, glass, or earthenware vessels must be used. Mix only a small portion of dye at a time. Dyes soon lose their penetrating power when exposed to the air. Apply the dye rapidly and thoroughly, but carefully. Keep henna packs hot while applying. The hair nearest the scalp is most resistant. To insure an even color bleach or dye should be stronger or left on longer for this part of the hair because the ends are weaker and absorb the dye more readily. Never leave a patron while the dye is developing. Watch the color and as soon as the desired shade is obtained proceed to shampoo and rinse thoroughly. Never dry the hair in the sun after it has been dyed. Dry by 173