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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS

paper scorches you know the iron is too hot. Learn to test the heat of the iron by the sense of smell or by holding it close to the cheek. Experience will soon teach you to correctly judge its temperature in this manner.

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The Marcel Iron

PROCESS OF MARCELLING

First take a mesh of hair about 1 1/2 inches wide and 1/2 inch in depth. Hold it between the forefinger and the middle finger of the left hand. To execute the first movement, apply the heated waving iron, grooved part underneath. Then, lift the mesh well forward, so as to avoid getting a wave which is too flat, and play the iron slightly to the left or right, whichever way you prefer the first dip, allowing the iron to remain tightly closed a few minutes to bake in the wave.

The first movement having been concluded and the shaping been automatically done, the waving iron is slightly opened. The edge of the hollow groove is then placed level with the lower crest of the "U" thus made and a complete turn of the iron is made to secure depth to the wave. The iron is then held in position for a second and after turning, it is opened and glided downward gently, along the hair to a distance which determines the size of the wave desired; the first movement is then executed again to complete the "S."

MARCEL POEM OR FORMULA

Pick up 1 1/2 inches of hair with fine part of comb. Insert Marcel iron grooved side down. Swing or direct hair to the face; close iron; full roll up one, two, three. Half unroll; open iron and place it under the ridge. Swing hair from the face; close iron and make one-half turn under and one-half turn over; open, slide one inch. Close iron; direct hair and proceed as before.

THE FOUNDATION WAVE—Pick up the hair with the Marcel comb and slip the heated iron into the hair with the grooved side underneath. Close the iron. Then turn the iron toward the scalp and with the comb swing the hair from the face, holding the comb under the iron horizontally. Unroll, and slip the iron into the hair again. Turn the iron half under, toward you, and with the comb, swing the hair to the face. Turn over the iron. Open and slide the iron in three counts, 1, 2, 3. Close and turn over the iron in

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TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE

two counts, 1, 2. Press the iron firmly, unroll and open. Slip the iron into the hair again, close, and turn half way under. Then swing to the left, and turn the iron toward the head. Slide and roll as above, and thus the two waves are formed.

After outlining the wave, it may be set again as many as four times to insure its firmness. Be sure that the hair is combed smoothly over the iron.

THE OUTLINE OF THE WAVE—After learning to put a perfect wave into a strand of extra hair or a practice switch, you are then prepared to try your skill on a live model whose hair must be free of soap and dirt.

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Iron slightly opened and ready to slip into hair. Note position of little finger inside of the handles.

MARCELLING STEP BY STEP

Directions for the First Wave—With the heated marcel iron held as in the first illustration with its groove underneath, pick up the hair with the fine part of the comb and insert the iron. The strand to be waved should be at least one and one-half inches wide and one-half inch thick. Close the iron tightly and swing the hair to the face. Roll up, or turn the iron toward the head until its handles are horizontal or in a flat position, the hair being kept perfectly smooth over the iron. The comb is held horizontally and between the head and the iron. Hold the iron, closed tightly, until the heat penetrates the hair and then half unroll the hair from the iron. Open the iron.

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Position of the fingers when applying the pressure. Note all fingers are around the handle.

There is now a decided sharp edge or ridge. Insert the iron, fitting the edge of the iron into the ridge in the hair close and make one half roll or turn under. The handles of the iron are now in a horizontal or flat position. Before closing the iron firmly, in executing the half turn under, form the wave with the comb by swinging the hair away from the face which is opposite the first swing. Now clasp the iron firmly but not too tightly and turn it one half turn over toward the head. Open the iron slightly and slide it down the hair about one inch. Roll three times until the handles are once more resting in a horizontal position and then unroll. Do not remove

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