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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS [[image]] Combing the hair tightly over the iron. The comb is held horizontally between the head and iron. both the iron and the comb from the hair except at one half turn under. These directions have been given before in this lesson, but the object is to emphasize, and if possible to make the movement so clear that marcelling may be learned without too much difficulty. The little finger of the right hand is always inserted between the handles when opening the marcel iron. The iron is rolled with the fingers and not by turning the entire wrist. For that reason marcel irons equipped with revolving handles are considered easiest to handle. The Marcel Poem and directions for marcelling step by step, just given only make two waves, therefore you must follow the same directions and wave to the end of the portion of hair. [[image]] Position of hands and iron in half turn under. MATCHING THE WAVE—After waving a strand of hair, take another strand of unwaved hair about one and one-half inches wide and a half inch thick, and a small part of the waved hair as a pattern. Slip the heated iron through the hair making the first crease of this unwaved portion of hair meet exactly the first crease of the portion of hair already waved. After each side of the hair has been waved, connect these sides with waves across the back, which is done by connecting the waves going from the face to the waves going to the face on either side of the head, or by connecting the 2nd wave on one side to the 3rd wave on the opposite side. [[image]] Sliding the iron. SIZE OF THE WAVE—By the size of the wave, we mean the length of the slide. If the patron has blonde or light brown hair, make the slide about one inch in length. If the patron is tall and of superior style with dark or black hair, you may with complete satisfaction, slide at least one and one-half inches and wave the entire length of the hair. With the dark haired patrons it is not necessary to leave room for the bob curl. The blonde type requires much more 180 TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE curl and fluffiness than the dark haired types. One manufacturer of marcel irons is marketing an enlarged type of iron the use of which produces a wide wave resembling a finger wave. WAVING TO THE ENDS OF THE HAIR—In waving dark hair, the operator must give the appearance of an all over marcel without adding the bob curl. Waving to the ends of the hair is a very popular style but it is somewhat more difficult to execute. First, bob curl the ends of the strands to be waved, pulling the strands well down and close to the head. After completing the bob curl, comb the bob curl out before beginning the wave. Then marcel in the usual way and the ends will be turned when the wave is completed. This is not doing away with the bob curl completely, but it is a simpler method than adding the curl after the wave has been completed. Then too, the hair lays smoother and closer to the head. SHORT PARTING—Begin waving on the heavy side of the hair and swing toward the back of the head. This throws the curved side of the wave to the back. Then, with the iron, gradually pull on the curved side until the horseshoe around the parting is complete. CENTER PARTING—In waving a head of bobbed hair which is parted in the center, it is well to begin at the back of the head behind the part and wave toward the face. Then if it is preferable that the dips be alike on both sides of the face, put in a wave close to the part on either side. [[image]] Waving straight back STRAIGHT BACK WAVE If the hair is to be waved straight back, there will be three or four layers on the front side of the head. Between the sides and the front there may be only two layers to wave. By this we understand that there may be three or four layers of hair to be waved in layers, but since expert wavers seldom lift the hair, it should be the earnest endeavor of every operator to pick up gradually, beginning at the second wave and waving until the hair is waved entirely through to the scalp. TO PICK UP THE WAVE—This means to begin at the second wave (never try to pick up from the first ridge) and gradually insert the iron a little deeper into the hair, each time beginning a wave further down until the 181
