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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS

hair is waved or pinned down to the shape of the head. Hair that has been bobbed long and has not been handled by a careful operator, will be many different lengths. However, continue to pick up, or piece out as it appears, even though the wave is not smooth.

[[image - Illustration A. Clamping the Hair, make the one-half turn under.]]

[[image - Illustration B. Half unroll; with iron placed under the ridge, close iron, make one-half turn under and one-half turn over, rolling the hair over the iron.]]

[[image - Illustration C. Open iron, slide one inch. Close iron and proceed.]]

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TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE

[[images - 2 views of A Finished Wave]]

TO LIFT UP THE HAIR

In order to wave deep down near the scalp, the portion of hair that is already waved is divided in thickness and the top portion is pinned loosely to the opposite side of the head. Using the remaining strands of waved hair as a pattern over the hair to be waved proceed to wave the hair close to the scalp. This practice should be followed with heavy suits of hair to insure a lasting wave.

THE DIPS-The dips refer to bringing the hair around the face. The dips may be accentuated by forcing the hair (in the movement we term swing) to the extreme point or alternately to the handles of the iron, to the face or away from the face.

DURABILITY OF THE WAVE

Hair may be too fine to wave successfully or it may be too coarse. Do not be afraid to roll the iron into the meshes of the hair. Do not wave hurriedly. Allow the heat to penetrate the strands of hair thoroughly. One hour is not too much time to spend on a good marcel, yet an expert operator does not require so much time. Go over the wave several times but do not cause the wave to lose its firmness by going over it with an iron that is too cold.

The depth of the wave and the keenest of the ridge both add to the durability as well as to the beauty of the wave. Yet, many admire a flat wave more hastily made and with less rolling of the iron. The wave for which we have given directions shortens the hair by almost one-third of its length and is not so desirable on hair that is too short.

USING IRONS TOO HOT-Nothing injures the standing of an operator so much as burning the hair or scalp. Watch the temperature of your waving iron. Blonde hair, white hair, or hair in which soap has been left, scorches very easily. For this reason, always test the iron on paper before applying it to the hair. Experience 

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