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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS

will teach the operator to recognize the proper heat of the iron by the sense of smell or by feel near the cheek.

Marcel waving is done best when there is some natural oil in the hair. If the hair does not take the wave easily and the patron does not wish to wait a day or two until the natural oil emits from the scalp and desires a wave immediately following a shampoo, the wave will remain longer if the scalp is given a vigorous scalp massage before beginning the wave. This, of course, does not apply to pressed hair which has plenty of oil in it after the pressing process has been finished.

Contrary to belief, there is no difference in the general process used in waving of our own and other groups.

Many operators give what is called a retrace or reset, going over the wave a few days later and charging half the regular price. But to offer a reset, says one authority, is to acknowledge a poor wave. For reasons of economy some customer may desire a retrace. In such cases, of course, no thrifty operator should decline to give it.

CROQUIGNOLE MAREL

(Croquignole Wave)

The Croquignole Marcel Wave has grown very popular as a means of dressing the hair. It is less hard on the hair than continuous marcelling because it is done with less heat and is especially adapted to waving bobbed hair, thin, fine hair, and hair of uneven lengths. The Coquignole curl, a series of which, when brushed out and set, go to form the wave, are quite useful in styling hair and giving a finished touch to ends of hair which has been marveled.

In the croquignole marcel a medium warm iron is used and while it is possible to use an ordinary marcel iron, the regular croquignole iron with a spring tangle in the joint produces much better results.

[[image - Croquignole Marcel Iron]]

To make the Croquignole curl proceed as follows:

1. Starting at the part, divide the hair off into small portions or blocks about one inch square and insert the warm iron groove side up, with the rod underneath the hair at an angle (as a to b), about two inches from the scalp.

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TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE

[[image - Swinging the Hair Toward Handle of Iron]]

[[image - After Making a Complete Turn of the Iron, Continue to Click the Hair onto the Iron.]]

[[image - Taking up the Free End of Hair a Curl is Made.]]

[[image - The Finished Curl]]

2. With the hand not holding the iron swing the end of the hair toward the handle of the iron and proceed the roll the iron all the way under, clicking it, constantly wrapping the hair onto the iron all the time and keeping it about two inches from the scalp.

3. With the iron and hand in the original position after making a complete turn, continue to click the hair onto the iron, gradually drawing the free ends toward the point.

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