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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS The curling fluid should contain no materials which leave a sediment on the hair after drying. TECHNIQUE OF FINGER WAVING--A finger wave is given in much the same manner as a water wave, except of course, no combs are used to hold the wave in place. Four movements, executed with the comb and the fingers are used in giving a finger wave. These movements are simple enough, but good results depend greatly upon their careful and accurate performance. Most difficulties in the finger waving come from holding the hand on the hair in the wrong position. Never attempt to hold the hair to be waved with a curved hand. In the correct position of the hand on the hair, the entire length of the forefinger must hold the section of hair to be waved, firmly and flatly against the head, while the remaining fingers and the palms are raised so that they do not rest upon or disturb any ridges or waves already made. PREPARING STRAIGHT HAIR FOR FINGER WAVE Properly preparing the hair before giving a finger wave is most important. Always recommend a shampoo first to make sure the hair is clean. If a shampoo is given do not dry the hair completely. Simply dry off the excessive water with a towel and apply the finger waving fluid to the moist hair, by freely sprinkling and rubbing it thoroughly into the hair. If a shampoo was given, comb the hair of all tangles, and saturate it with the waving fluid. Following this, carefully comb the hair again until it is free of tangles and part the hair as the customer desires, divide it and comb the hair straight down smoothly to the head and begin the finger wave. MOVEMENTS--Start the wave on the heavy side of the hair. 1. Hold the hair firmly with the left hand by placing the forefinger about one inch from the part. The comb which is being held in the right hand is inserted through the entire depth of the hair slightly underneath the forefinger of the left hand and pulled down one inch. See Illustration 1. 2. Without lifting the comb, move it slightly sideways either to the right or to the left, to swing the first wave in the direction it is to fall. This, like in marcelling, is called Directing the wave. See Illustration 2. 3. With the left hand still pressing tightly on the hair, push the comb from the last position, upward to the left forefinger to form a ridge. See Illustration 3. [[image - Illustration 1]] 190 TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE [[image - Illustration 2]] [[image - Illustration 3]] [[image - Illustration 4]] 4. Holding the comb under the ridge just made, raise the left hand from the hair and place it down upon the hair to firmly hold the newly-made ridge between the first and second fingers. Comb the hair through to the ends. See Illustration 4. The same movements are continued to form the next wave except when movement 3 is reached the hair is pulled toward the back of the head, or opposite the direction of the first wave. In other words, for a wave to the right, swing the comb to the right; and for a wave to the left, swing the comb to the left. See Illustrations 5 and 6. MATCHING THE WAVES- Having made the first ridge in a section of hair about the width of the forefinger's length, the remaining sections of hair on that side of the head must be waved. This is done by continuing the ridge already made into the adjoining unwaved section of hair. This should be done carefully and is known as matching the wave. To accomplish proper matching of the waves, one ridge at a time should be done. After making one ridge across the heavy side of the hair and carrying it back to the crown of the head where it is lost, return to the from of the hair and begin the second ridge or wave about one inch below the first, using the same movements. Complete the matching waving on the heavy side of the hair and then move to the thin side. See Illustrations 1 and 2. WAVING THE THIN SIDE OF THE HAIR Some excellent finger wavers start waving this side of the hair by inserting the middle finger one inch below the part and the forefinger is raised. This is permissible and will give perfect results if carefully performed. [[image - Illustration 5]] As soon as the ridge is formed by the comb the forefinger is brought down over the ridge, and the ridge is firmly held between the middle and forefinger. The first wave on the thin side of the hair begins at the crown of the head and to wave the back section of the hair, match the second 191
