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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS PERMANENT WAVING There are many different permanent waving machines on the market but the process or general principle is very similar in the various methods. We take up permanent waving in a general way, not that our graduates will be called upon to practice it extensively, but the requirements of so many of the State boards of beauty culture demand at least a perfunctory knowledge of the art. In permanent waving there are three wraps: The Helical, the Spiral and the Croquignole. A wave is finished when it is tested and found curly. A permanent wave is the process of changing the cell structure of hair from its original straightness to a curly condition. Hair is composed of little cells or scales that overlap each other like scales on a fish. When chemicals are used on hair -like the chemical used in Permanent Waving- it opens up the little scales and causes them to change from a nonporous to a porous condition. That is, it makes the hair change from its original straightness to a curly-like condition which is easy to wave. When hair is in this porous condition it will take on moisture making it easy to wrap and bake into a curl. Remember the chemicals used in a permanent are the agents that cause the cell structure to break down and thus make the hair easy to wave. The various twists or winds of hair given in permanent waving are responsible for the shape of the wave. The flat twist or wind is the one most generally used on all hair as it gives a marcel effect. A Permanent Wave machine only furnishes the heat to bake in a wave. PROCEDURE First shampoo the hair and dry it thoroughly. Success lies in following these instructions deliberately and carefully, step by step. We have described and illustrated each operation in detail so that anyone should understand clearly the things to be done and the order in which to do them. [[image - figure 1]] Provide a small bowl and mix the Waving Solution as follows: Decide on the number of curls it will require to complete the head. take this number of steaming pads or flannels, using one ounce of cold water to each eight flannels. 194 TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE [[image - figure 2, Follow the dotted lines in Figure 3 in placing the curls on the head for the side or center part.]] [[image - figure 3]] Separate the flannels and thoroughly agitate them to obtain the waving solution. Use the solution to moisten the hair before parting the hair into strands for winding. For coarse or medium hair use "Regular Supplies." For fine, medium or white hair use "Special Supplies." Separate the hair into strands, each covering about one square inch as is shown by the dotted lines in figure 1. The solid lines in figure 2 show the parting of the hair when worn straight back. Start the first row in the middle of the head and make three rows on each side of the center. Then follow the guide as is shown in figure 3. Make sure that every hair is thoroughly moistened with the waving solution, particularly at the roots. If the hair seems to be dry moisten the strand of hair again when you are ready to wind as shown in figure 4. Wrap short string around each strand twice as is shown in figure 5, about one-half inch from the head. If the string is first moistened with water, it will hold tighter on the rod. [[image - figure 4]] Attach the strand to the Curler Rod by pulling the string through the slit in the end of the rod as shown in figure 6. [[image - figure 5]] Wind the string around the curler rod and then bring it through the slit as is shown in figure 7. This will hold the strand firmly in place. There are three methods of winding the hair, viz., flat twisted and half twist. For ringlets, wind about two inches of the ends of the hair over and over on top of each layer of hair, 195
