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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS flat. Then tie by wrapping the long string a number of times, as is shown in figure 9. Be sure that all ends are well wound. [[image - figure 6]] When the hair is properly wound and tied, it should appear as shown in figure 9. Note that the tie is close to the head. Figure 10 shows the twisted wind. [[image - figure 7]] Hold the hair flat and tight in your fingers and at each turn give your hand a complete turn. This twists the hair and gives it a very decided ridge. It is very important in giving this wind to hold the hair between the thumb and forefinger close to the rod and let the hair slip through your fingers by the natural winding only. [[image - figure 8]] Figure 11 is the half twist. Start the strands of hair flat over the curler rod as for the flat wind on one side, then give it one turn and hold with the fingers of the left hand. [[image - figure 9]] Let go of the strands of hair, comb out smooth and place it flat again and then twist. [[image - figure 10]] This will show on the curler rod as flat on one side and twisted on the other which gives a very effective wave. [[image - figure 11]] When winding long hair, wind down the curler rod about four inches. Then tie by wrapping the string a number of times as shown in figure 12. Tighten this portion of hair. Moisten the rest of the hair with the waving lotion [[image - figure 12]] 196 TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE and wrap it loosely around the balance of the rod. If necessary wind back over part already wound. Then tie the ends or hold in place by winding the steaming pad around the curl as shown in figure 15. [[image - figure 13]] IMPORTANT Hold the hair in the left hand and tighten with the right hand by turning the curler rod in the opposite direction than the hair is wound. You can either wind the hair towards you or from you and the curler rods can be tightened either way. Unless the hair is wound tight on the curler rod you will not get results. [[image - figure 14]] [[image - figure 15]] Place the felt pad between the end of the curler rod and head, as shown in figure 14. See that the end of the curler rod rests on the felt pad. Wind the steaming pad around the curl in the direction that the hair was wound. In placing this steaming pad or flannel, great care must be used to have the hair well covered, especially at the roots. Be sure that the end of the rod is well covered in figure 15. As in figure 16, place the steaming tube in position as shown. Then close with the crimper as is shown in figure 17. As in figure 17, it is necessary to have all wound hair inside the tube before closing, and it is very necessary to have the tube well sealed at the end by crimping the tube around the end of the rod which must be well covered by flannel as is shown in figure 15. Figure 18. Place the fibre shield over the felt pad and close securely. Be sure to have the shield closed tightly under the end of the rod and tube. As in figure 19, the heaters are new placed over the tubes and the cords are adjusted by means of an adjusting loop, so that the heaters will rest upon the fibre shield. 197