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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS or fat in the hair. Having heat applied to any oil or fat will cause a discoloration and this also applies to the hair. When waving white hair, have the hair well moistened and before wrapping the flannels, rinse them in clear water to take out the remainder of the solution. Do not steam the hair longer than twelve minutes even if the flannels have not started to turn color. Remove the heaters immediately instead of allowing them to cool three minutes as is usual when waving dark hair. If the hair shows discoloration after the steaming process, remove one tube at a time and rub the hair while it is on the rod, before it has had time to cool, with a mixture of two ounces of 17 volume peroxide and 6 or 7 drops of special permanent waving rinse, applying the rinse with a piece of absorbent cotton. In measuring the rinse, use an eye dropper. It would be well to have a helper for this as it must be done quickly and while the hair is warm on the rods. After the curls have been taken from the rods shampoo the hair. (We recommend the shampooing to white hair immediately after the wave when the discoloration has been removed by this process. When drying white hair, use cool air.) REWAVING, where the old hair has partially grown out: The hair must be shampooed and dried thoroughly. Decide on the number of waves you will need to complete the rewave. Usually, sixteen to twenty new waves are required, as in most cases, you will only rewave a few curls on the top of the head. Treat the flannels as before in applying the solution to the hair to be waved, moisten from the roots half way up the hair to where the old wave starts. This is important because the old wave must be left dry when winding. Wind the hair flat in usual manner up to where the old wave starts. Then wind the old wave carefully. Wind in the same direction as the original wave, allowing the hair to curl around the rod naturally. Do not reverse the curl or wrap in opposite direction from the way it wants to curl. After the ends are tied and before tightening the curl moisten the new growth of hair, applying as much as the hair will absorb. Do not moisten the old hair with the solution. Now tighten hair on rods. Unless hair is tight on rods, the wave will not be satisfactory. Rinse flannels as before and wrap curls. Use felt pads and shields as is customary and place tubes in position, crimping the ends. Place in heaters and turn on current as usual. 200 TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE Time the steaming operation carefully. Ten to eleven minutes is sufficient to leave current on. This gives six minutes steam as it usually requires four or five minutes to generate steam in the tubes. In most cases six minutes steam is ample for rewaving. Leave heaters in place for three minutes after the current is shut off. Allow curls to cool before removing the tubes. After the curls are removed from rods, rinse the hair in cold water and comb and set in the usual way. PERMANENT WAVING IN BRIEF Part the hair off in squares about one inch; take strings, wrap twice around the hair at the scalp, attach curling sticks, wind hair around the sticks in one of the three fashions: 1. Full twist (for fine hair) or Helical Wind (not overlapping). 2. Half twist (for medium grades of hair) cross between Helical and Spiral. 3. A flat wind or overlapping (for coarse hair). Use this wind for marcel effect. 4. Croquignole, or flat wind, giving same effect as flat wind but wrapped from ends to roots. Leave current on from ten to eleven minutes. Turn off electricity and let machine cool. Take curls off machine, then run warm water over the hair, comb in curling fluid or wave set and set wave with fingers. Brush ends around your fingers to curl ends under or up. Dry under a dryer. TIME OF BAKING Coarse hair-12 minutes on machine. Medium hair-11 minutes on machine. Fine hair-10 minutes on machine-is hard to wave. White hair-8 to 9 minutes on machine; in case hair is yellow from heat, use peroxide and alcohol, put it on hair while it is on the curler and warm and rinse in bluing. (Use peroxide to bleach and alcohol to hasten the drying process.) Cool hair five minutes with the heaters on. WINDS OF PERMANENT WAVING HELICAL-Not overlapping. Spiral in effect but curves are round like a cork screw. SPIRAL-Overlapping. Spiral effect but curves are flat like watch spring. CROQUIGNOLE-Flat, spiral in effect but curves are flat like 201
