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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS

ribbon and hair wound this type is wrapped from ends towards root, while helical and spiral may be wrapped from root to ends of hair.

Some of the chemicals found in a Permanent Waving Solution are Ammonia, Distilled Water, Borax, Soda and Oils.

VAPOIL PERMANENT WAVING ON PRESSED HAIR

1. The hair must be pressed well, especially at the roots.

2. Block the hair off into sections evenly.

3. Take one section of hair.

4. Place one rubber scalp protector at the roots of the section.

5. With the thumb and forefinger, spread VAPOIL from roots to ends.

6. Wind the hair with croquignole wrap from ends to scalp.

7. Cover the wrapped hair with a square of chemically-prepared paper.

8. Place the permanent waiving machine heater over the chemical paper.  The heater should be warm before it is placed on the hair.

9. The length of time which the hair is baked varies according the texture of the hair.

10. When all of the hair has been baked, remove the heaters.

11. Comb the hair smoothly and brush well.  Set the hair in fingerwave fashion.  Finish the ends by combing over the finger or rolling on the cold marcel iron.

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CHAPTER TWENTY

CURLING AND FANCY HAIRDRESSING

The style of a woman's hairdress has everything to do with her appearance.  Women, who ordinarily would be considered good looking, can be made to appear hideous, and others, who seem to be only commonplace, may be made very attractive, by the improper or proper arrangement of the hair.  Therefore, fancy hair dressing or hair styling is the framing of one's hair to suit the face in the most becoming manner.

The girl or woman should choose the style which fits her best, for to sacrifice the most harmonious arrangement is to sacrifice individuality and personality.  The hair should never be arranged too tightly.  Hair arranged in this manner has a tendency to break away from the natural hairline.  Then, too, it is injurious to the hair because the air, which is so necessary to scalp health, cannot circulate freely through the hair.

With the knowledge derived from the past chapters and by close attention to this chapter, it will not be difficult for the operator to determine quickly which hair style is the most becoming to her patron.  Study the patron's face, arranging the hair this way and that until you find the arrangement that accentuates the points in her face that should be brought out and diminishes the prominence of features which are irregular.  In this way, women who are really plain can be made very attractive.

Dark hair is generally at its best when it is dressed smooth, glossy, and plain.  When dark hair is waved, the waves should be wide waves, generally.  Blonde hair usually appears best when it is waved in narrow waves, giving the hair a curly or fluffy appearance.  To bring out the gloss in dark hair, apply Madam C. J. Walker's Brilliantine sparingly, with the palms of the hands to the hair surface.  Then, with cotton inserted into the meshes of a stiff brush, brush the hair vigorously.  This not only adds a beautiful lustre but cleans the surface of the hair as well.

The average healthy hair will sustain four ounces of weight.  In dressing the hair, particular attention should be taken as to its arrangement in order that too much strain will not be placed on the hair.  If the hair is not strong and is undernourished, each group of strands must be handled carefully when using the irons or wrapping the hair on curlers of any kind.

In these days of individuality of dress, nothing comes in for

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