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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS

prevailing fashion, it seems almost unnecessary to go into detail on the arrangement of long hair. However, it is best for the operator to be familiar with the standard arrangements for both long and short hair. The following arrangements will fit the operator to cope with every demand in the way of dressing the hair, that patrons might desire.

[[images - Illustration 7, two drawings of women's hair styles, one labeled "WRONG" and one labeled "RIGHT"]]

BOB CURL (under)—This style is often desired by patrons wearing the straight bob. The bob curls, both up and under, are used in the completion of a marcel, turning the ends up or under as the patron desires. Take a portion of hair as wide as two fingers. Open the hot marcel iron and place it on the ends of the hair. Close the iron and roll under, giving it half turn towards the patron's neck. Open and withdraw the iron. Repeat until the entire ends of the hair have been turned under.

BOB CURL (up)—This style is also desired by patrons wearing bobbed hair. It is executed the same way as the bob curl under except that the marcel iron is turned upward from the neck instead of under.

[[images - three drawings of women's hair styles]] titled Examples of Hair]] 
Examples of Hair Dressed High

STYLES OF HAIR DRESSING

Some of the popular styles of dressing the hair which come and go are

The Imitation Bob
Bob Curls (under or up)
Round Curls
Children's or Long Curls
Figure Eight
French Knot
Puffe or Psyche
The Fan-Shaped
Pineapple or Rose Petal Bob
Bisquit
Cable Knot

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TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE

IMITATION BOB—This is a very good style for the patron who has short hair and does not desire to have it cut, and yet wants her hair to appear as if it was bobbed. It is a style suitable for miss or matron, young or old, and may be worn with a side or center part. This is done by dividing the hair across the crown of the head from ear to ear. Curl the front of the hair for a side part if desired, or part and curl for a center part. The side part is more attractive for this style. Then make another part about one inch behind the first one and across the head. Curl this section of the hair. The hair in the back is then combed together and tied low, rolled into a flat knot and pinned just above the nape of the neck. Arrange the curled portion of the hair straight down over the ears, tuck the end up under the strands and pin them to the flat knot at the nape of the neck. Drape the curled section of the hair left on the crown of the head back and straight down over the uncurled hair at the nape of the neck. Tuck the ends under securely, and pin.

Make certain not to draw the curled hair too tight or to draw the strands all together toward the flat knot. Allow the strands to come down straight and turn the ends under. Carry the hair to the flat knot and pin.

[[image]]
Round Curls Made with Moderately Heated Marcel Iron 

THE ROUND CURL—This is, in truth, a beautiful wave, sometimes called the crescent or American Marcel wave. It is given by parting the hair from ear to ear across the head, rolling up the hair on the back of the head in the style desired and parting odd into one inch squares the portion to be curled. With the thumb and the first two fingers pick up one portion of the hair that has been parted odd and twist it around the marcel iron which has been heated to a moderate degree. Close the iron for two or three minutes, then release the iron and unwind the hair. Repeat the operation until each portion of the hair to be curled has been gone over. Apply Madam C.J. Walker's Brilliantine sparingly and brush

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