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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS inside of the coil. This gives fullness and firmness. After the entire strand has been rolled in this manner, lift up and arrange in turns, twists or knots, pinning in place with hair pins inserted underneath. PAPER CURLING [[images - paper curling: figures 1 through 5]] The paper curl, when properly made, resembles a marcel wave but is much more lasting. However, it requires more time to execute. The curl is made by the pinching iron and a small piece of paper cut into a square and folded in a triangular shape. The paper used may be white or brown paper that is not too stiff. Each edge of the paper should be about four inches long. First shampoo the hair and when it has been thoroughly dried, part it or block it off into squares about one and one-quarter inches square (see permanent waving). Then, dampen the hair with warm water or the following curling fluid which you may prepare for the purpose: Dissolve three tablespoonful of Tragacanth in one quart of cold water. When the Tragacanth is thoroughly dissolved, add three teaspoonful of Gum Arabic. Add a few drops of your favorite perfume. Madam C. J. Walker's Vapoil is especially good for paper curling. After each strand has been dampened, roll it around a curling stick or lead pencil. Roll the hair around each roll, going over the other like the letter "O" with a number of smaller "o's" inside of it. Roll all of the way to the head. Slide the roll of hair off the curling stick and place the roll, which now has the appearance of a small mat, in the center of the triangular piece of paper. The long side of the paper should be next to the head. Fold the paper as illustrated, finally twisting the end. Curl each section of the hair and wrap in papers 210 TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE before heating the iron. With the pinching irons moderately hot, clamp each curl through the paper with the pinching irons. Hold about two minutes but do not allow the iron to scorch the paper. Go over the entire head with the pinching irons, rather over each curl. Allow the curls to cool before removing the papers. When the curls are cool, apply Madam C. J. Walker's Glossine and comb through the curls. The curls may then be set in waves. These curls are generally made on bobbed hair, though they may be made on long hair and children's hair as well. [[image - After Papers Have Been Removed.] 211