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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS [[image - Thin or Long Face]] SELECTION OF COLOR FOR MAKE UP The type of complexion is the guide to follow in selecting the shade of make-up, bearing in mind that the purpose of make-up is to enliven the face and emphasize its natural beauty. There may come the exceptional time when a patron may desire an off-color make-up such as for a masquerade or carnival party. But as a general rule the lighter shades of make-up should be used at night and the darker shades for daytime. Face powder should be selected of a shade to blend with the coloring of the neck so as to avoid the appearance of wearing a face mask. Many shades of face powder may be purchased from white to the dark shades of brown. These shades of powder may be blended to match the individual complexion. Madam C.J. Walker's Face Powder, Rouge and Lipstick are especially well suited to our complexions and come in all the popular and wanted shades. Rouge, lipstick, eyeshadow, etc., all should be selected in shades slightly lighter than the complexion for the most attractive results. TABLE OF COSMETIC SHADES FOR MAKE-UP Fair Complexions- Mme. C.J. Walker's: Peach-Glo Powder Poppy Rouge Poppy Lipstick Fair Complexions (Yellow Cast)- Mme. C.J. Walkers: Rose Flesh Powder Orange Rouge Orange Lipstick Medium Complexions- Mme. C.J. Walkers: Brown Powder Orange Rouge Orange Lipstick Olive Complexions- Mme. C.J. Walker's: Gypsy Tan Powder Orange Rouge Orange Lipstick Dark Complexions- Mme. C.J. Walker's: Egyptian Brown or Brunette Powder Medium Rouge Medium Lipstick MAKE-UP FOR ROUND FACE After the proper shades of make-up have been selected and Madam C.J. Walker's Vanishing Cream applied as a foundation, proceed to apply the rouge on the cheek bone, blending it in to the nose. The high spot of color should be on the cheek, but the rouge 258 TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE [[image - Apply Face Powder in a Triangle, the Apex of Which is Nearest the Nose.]] should show faintly under the eyes and fade out at the nose. Apply proper shade of powder lightly. Should eye shadow be used, apply it heaviest at the center of the eyes. If mascara is to be used, touch the outer corners of the lashes only. Darken the natural eyebrow with eyebrow pencil but do not lengthen. MAKE-UP FOR THIN FACE Following the selecting of make-up and application of foundation cream, apply the rouge on the cheek bone and blend backward toward the ear and slightly downward to form a triangle, making the high-spot on the cheek and faintly coloring under the eyes. Apply mascara, if desired, across the lashes to within a quarter inch of the inner corners. The eyebrow pencil should be used to slightly extend the outer end of each brow, straight out but never downward as this will give a sad, drooping effect to the face. RULES FOR USING LIPSTICK [[image - The Use of Lipstick]] Always use the same shade of lipstick as rouge for the cheeks, as the natural color of the lips gives a little deeper tone. In applying lipstick follow the shape of the mouth and be sure to place the lipstick well on the inner side of the lips. Perk the lips closed to form the natural line. FOR HEAVY LIPS. If the lower lip is full or very heavy, apply lipstick lightly and more heavily on the thin, upper lip. If the upper lip is full, apply lightly here and heaviest on the lower lip. FOR WIDE LIPS. Apply lipstick heaviest at the center of lips and fade the color toward the corners of the mouth. FOR THIN LIPS. Apply the lipstick more freely, placing more color on the lower lip and carry the color well out to the corners of the mouth. A dash of rouge on a double chin, on the edge of a protruding chin, on the scowling lines of the forehead and on the lobes of the ears, will assist nature. This does not mean to accentuate those 259