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THE MADAM C. J. WALKER SCHOOLS

plates as the nail grows longer. In some persons nails may not show a lunula, but this condition is rarely found.

HYPONYCHIUM is the layer of skin around and underneath the free edge, which becomes thickened at the corners of the free edge. (Wall.)

EPONYCHIUM is the layer of skin at the base of the nail and extends a short distance along the sides. (Fold.)

GROWTH OF THE NAILS

Hair requires thirty days to grow about one-half inch, while a nail grows about 1/8 of an inch per month. A new nail assumes full growth in about one hundred and sixty days or about six months. However, this growth varies with age, the seasons, and in particular individuals.

A toe nail, not often permitted to the light and sunshine, requires over three hundred days to reproduce itself.

The nail does not grow from the end as is usually supposed, but from what is termed the MATRIX. The MATRIX is composed of a number of tiny cells situated just between the half-moon or Lunula and the first joint of the finger and is the seat of the growth of the nail. Gradually the nail is pushed up from the Matrix.

FUNCTION OF THE NAILS

1. Serve as Protective Organs.
2. Cover Nerve Endings.
3. Cover other Delicate Skin Tissue.
4. Serve as Natural Weapons.
5. Serve as useful Tools on the Fingers.

CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF NAILS

This analysis is based on the composition of a normal nail. Since some nails are not normal due to injury or abnormal body conditions, it naturally follows that the percentages will vary. The solid constituents of nails, that is the carbon, and sulphur, together with nitrogen, form what is known as KERATIN. As shown by the table, Keratin is the chief composition of the nails.

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TEXT BOOK OF BEAUTY CULTURE

DISEASES OF THE NAILS:

A healthy nail appears clear, or rosy colored and free from white spots, ridges, and discolorations. The root of the nail is easily injured by accidents or disease, and, as a result, the luster, color, and shape of the nail are often permanently lost.

Every disease of the nail arises from blood disorders of some kind. When the nail is RIDGED, it denotes nervousness and when BRITTLE it denotes weakness and poor circulation. When the nail appears BLUISH and has no luster it denotes a sluggish condition of the heart. Warmth and high luster prove good health. When the nails look as if they are SWOLLEN and rise above the finger (clubbed nails) they are symptoms of tuberculosis. This condition does not come under the scope of the manicurist, so far as treatment is concerned.

Eczema may spread from the nearby tissues and attack the nail root, causing an inflammation which may result in complete loss of the nail. In this disease, and in psoriasis, the nail may grow over the end of the finger, curve like a claw, thicken and turn brownish in color.

ONYCHOSIS is any disease of the nails.

ONYCHAUXIS (Hypertrophy) means enlarging. Oftimes nervous diseases as eczema, excessive or overdone nutrition and scrofula are carried to the skin by the vascular system and may cause an enlarged condition of the nail. While the main body of the nail has an enlarged appearance, beneath the nail will be found a horny or callous condition of the cuticle. Such nails may be improved by oiling the cuticle nightly and keeping the free edge filed deep in the corners so as to give an oval appearance rather than a blunt edge.

ONYCHATROPHIA (Atrophy) is referred to as a wasting condition of the nails. An atrophied nail is constantly shedding, growing smaller and smaller and is especially noticeable when the patron is losing vitality from lack of nutrition. In these cases, always keep the cuticle well oiled, as oil in itself is nourishment.

ONYCHORRHEXIS (brittleness) is a condition of the nail which causes it to break almost as fast as it can grow. It is usually found in persons suffering from organic heart trouble or in persons of high nervous temperament. Keeping the cuticle pushed well back and oiled will toughen the nail. Hot oil manicures are especially good for this condition.

ONYCHIA (inflammation of the matrix), which is a constellation

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